Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, so considering selling the turbobrick for something more boring (read sensible and cheaper to run). Apparently houses are worth a bit more in the long run than a car .. go figure !! :)

Keen to guage opinions of what I could get for the following

Car

1997 Series 1

Full Dayz Bodykit

102,000 Ks

Timing belt and water pump done, all new filters twice since importing, new sparkies.

full black leather interior

NO SUNROOF though

Silver colour

Mods

R34 Skyline sidemount intercooler upgrade

3" BOS stainless split dump pipe

3" catco metal cat - the highest flowing one

R32 TRUST cat back modded to fit

GTR fuel pump

S-AFC Neo computer

S-ITC computer

K&N Panel Filter

Tubotech boost controller set at 10psi

Currently pulling 153Kw at the wheels.

Pirelli Dragon tyres all round - less than 10,000 on them.

Asthetics

Clear front and side indicators

Series 2 tail lights

Pioneer MP3 and Bluetooth stereo

Blue LED dash globes

Rhino Roof racks if interested

Condition

Interior would be a 4 out of 5. A couple of scuff on the leather but otherwise sweet

Exterior was a 4 but there are some shopping centre scars now unfortunately. A few scratches and a scuff on the bumper, say a 3.5. Overall it is not bad, I am just pissed about the scratches.

Rear wing needs repainting as has sunburn on the top. Can't see unless you are a bird though !!

NSW rego till April.

This is a nice straight car, with sensible mods and definite potential to go further as all the supporting mods are in place for 200Kw atw. Just throw a fmic and a hi-flow turbo on it and you are done.

I looked for a while before importing this one, as leather is not that common. The Dayz kit looks the goods without being too low or impractical. Will be sorry to see it go as has served me well. A dream on long trips, it just eats up the road. Econony is good for a car of this size, especially with the current boost level (not sure why other people have trouble getting a decent fuel economy). I get 13-14 round town and 11 on the highway.

So .... what's she worth ???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200000-whats-she-worth/
Share on other sites

Ok, so considering selling the turbobrick for something more boring (read sensible and cheaper to run). Apparently houses are worth a bit more in the long run than a car .. go figure !! :)

Keen to guage opinions of what I could get for the following

Car

1997 Series 1

Full Dayz Bodykit

102,000 Ks

Timing belt and water pump done, all new filters twice since importing, new sparkies.

full black leather interior

NO SUNROOF though

Silver colour

Mods

R34 Skyline sidemount intercooler upgrade

3" BOS stainless split dump pipe

3" catco metal cat - the highest flowing one

R32 TRUST cat back modded to fit

GTR fuel pump

S-AFC Neo computer

S-ITC computer

K&N Panel Filter

Tubotech boost controller set at 10psi

Currently pulling 153Kw at the wheels.

Pirelli Dragon tyres all round - less than 10,000 on them.

Asthetics

Clear front and side indicators

Series 2 tail lights

Pioneer MP3 and Bluetooth stereo

Blue LED dash globes

Rhino Roof racks if interested

Condition

Interior would be a 4 out of 5. A couple of scuff on the leather but otherwise sweet

Exterior was a 4 but there are some shopping centre scars now unfortunately. A few scratches and a scuff on the bumper, say a 3.5. Overall it is not bad, I am just pissed about the scratches.

Rear wing needs repainting as has sunburn on the top. Can't see unless you are a bird though !!

NSW rego till April.

This is a nice straight car, with sensible mods and definite potential to go further as all the supporting mods are in place for 200Kw atw. Just throw a fmic and a hi-flow turbo on it and you are done.

I looked for a while before importing this one, as leather is not that common. The Dayz kit looks the goods without being too low or impractical. Will be sorry to see it go as has served me well. A dream on long trips, it just eats up the road. Econony is good for a car of this size, especially with the current boost level (not sure why other people have trouble getting a decent fuel economy). I get 13-14 round town and 11 on the highway.

So .... what's she worth ???

Quick sale: $10-11k

Not in a hurry: $13-14.5k

Waiting for it to be a classic:$16k+

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200000-whats-she-worth/#findComment-3561210
Share on other sites

thanks guys, anyone else care to make a suggestion ... or an offer ?!?!?!

I would have hoped for the $14k range really, but there are so many coming in now .. check out eBay there is like 30 there :yes:

Still, it DOES have leather interior !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200000-whats-she-worth/#findComment-3561651
Share on other sites

If the car's tidy, you'll probably get close to that, but you wouldn't want to be in a hurry to sell... I'm used to looking at siteslike j-spec/direct imported which are always cheaper than carsales, etc...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200000-whats-she-worth/#findComment-3561661
Share on other sites

remove your mods and sell em. just the easy ones to remove and convert to stock

This wouldn't be worth it IMO. Just about any mod you remove from the engine/tuning side of things will require a re-tune, costing ~$150 - hardly worth it for the money you'd get back from the parts.

Its true mods dont add $$ to the car price (well not much anyway), but I still say that give it better value and may be the difference between getting a sale and not getting a sale.

I'm no good with selling price, but my general rule is, price it at somewhere around what YOU would pay if you saw one. People generally dont want to pay a fair price, they want a bargain. So getting what its worth has a lot to do with how much you perceive it is worth and how much it really is worth...

Every time I think of selling mine I come to the conclusion its worth a lot more to me than what anyone would pay so I may as well keep it. Plus I dont think any other car could replace it entirely. There would be compromises.

Even now I'm only spending maybe $20 more a week on fuel than if I owned a small car, and the benefits far outweigh that.

I'm more than happy to rent a house and own a good car. Its a lifestyle choice and for me the uncertain interest rates, house market, and so many other unknowns like white-ants etc make owning a house too risky. Each to their own hey :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200000-whats-she-worth/#findComment-3561663
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...