Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

these thought all started by a forum member that had me thinking for a while and i need answers now (bastard)

the first pic is your seen this 1000 times manifold sold in performance shops and ebay.from $200-$800 so far people say there shit.

the second i have not seen many times and am wondering if they would be any good or if any one has one,they look ok to me but maybe to a high quality forum specialist might be able to advise me.

also these 6boost manifold dose any one have proof that they work,i know people say they don't crack but is there proof of gains.ive read posts in the past but after a while still no real answer!!

Quick list of mods,greedy intake manifold,hks gtrs,hks cams,forged pistons&rods,power fc,nismo injectors +++++++ all mods

if anyone can help that would be nice.

first pic ebay copy

second hpi manifold,copy or not i dont know.

post-26570-1199346488_thumb.jpg

post-26570-1199347755_thumb.jpg

post-26570-1199347764_thumb.jpg

post-26570-1199347820_thumb.jpg

Edited by WARLORD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200047-manifolds-do-they-dont-they/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i Bought the first manifold off ebay and it didnt even fit.

Had to drill the holes out bigger for it to fit onto the studs then i finally got it on it would hit the mount tat supports the intake pipe just before the butterfly.

my mate has a vl turbo with the 6boost manifold with a stock internal engine and a t66 turbo. The spool time is almost instant. Its farkin insane

i have met kyle and he has showed me his manifolds and the merge collector on them is awesome. A+ quality and a top dude.

Also Mark from godzilla motorsports that has a r32 gtr, that now i believe runs 8.34 has a 6boost manifold on his car.

If ya looking at a manifold go check out 6boost first.

my mate has a vl turbo with the 6boost manifold with a stock internal engine and a t66 turbo. The spool time is almost instant. Its farkin insane

i have met kyle and he has showed me his manifolds and the merge collector on them is awesome. A+ quality and a top dude.

Also Mark from godzilla motorsports that has a r32 gtr, that now i believe runs 8.34 has a 6boost manifold on his car.

If ya looking at a manifold go check out 6boost first.

thanks for the info does your mate have a before and after ,power wise

the second one is just another version of cheap shit which looks attractive to the untrained eye.

dont be a stingy ass and go out and get yourself a 6-boost or hks gt- cast manifold to complement the reast of

your mods

very good .......sharp eye :down: now where can i find a hks manifold ive looked for a while,and as for a 6boost manifold it would be nice to see how many people really got a good result,and how many of these are being used by sau members .

these thought all started by a forum member that had me thinking for a while and i need answers now (bastard)

the first pic is your seen this 1000 times manifold sold in performance shops and ebay.from $200-$800 so far people say there shit.

the second i have not seen many times and am wondering if they would be any good or if any one has one,they look ok to me but maybe to a high quality forum specialist might be able to advise me.

also these 6boost manifold dose any one have proof that they work,i know people say they don't crack but is there proof of gains.ive read posts in the past but after a while still no real answer!!

Quick list of mods,greedy intake manifold,hks gtrs,hks cams,forged pistons&rods,power fc,nismo injectors +++++++ all mods

if anyone can help that would be nice.

ok the first one is utter shit and gives zero incerease anywhere, the second ones design is killer and is based one the HPI one.... i know i helped to develop them.

the HPI and similar manifolds were originally developed by myself, EVAN and finally built by GIZZMO NZ the prototypes were then sent off to ********* factory to be manufactured..... a month later it was available ex HPI who just happens to use the same supplier.... it has now been copied by at least 4 other factories in taiwan and china.

as for performance there was no drawbacks and a clear increase accross the board (all original testing done with std turbo).... it took four prototypes to get right and many months of work on a dynapack to compare designs.

NO other local manufactured manifold can compete with that (HPI) design for response or power and factory turbo placement so all your normal dumps and front fit without modification..

ok te first one is utter shit and gives zero incerease anywhere, the second one is killer and is based one the HPI one.... i know i helped to develop them.

the HPI and similar manifolds were originally developed by myself, EVAN and finally built by GIZZMO NZ the prototypes were then sent off to ********* factory to be manufactured..... a month later it was available ex HPI who just happens to use the same supplier.... it has now been copied by at least 4 other factories in taiwan and china.

as for performance there was no drawbacks and a clear increase accross the board (all original testing done with std turbo).... it took four prototypes to get right and many months of work on a dynapack to compare designs.

intrested to know how much do you/they sell them for?

a few years back i was reading HPI magazine, they had a article on S/S manifolds and cast iron manifolds.....

does it really make a diffrents? besides how much heat one manifold can take? and weight? :)

in really depends on the application, i prefer on GTR's to leave the factory manifolds and heat shields in place but in sr20 for example anything over 230ish i will turf the manifold in favour of a few proven designs (not the cheap genric crap), up until the rb25 manifold was available i would never consider changing the factory item, even on small high mounts i would make up an adapter to lift turbo and run a gate pipe down for the waste gate as the factory manifold flowed OK'ish and combined with a good heatshield provided good results at a very low cost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...