Jump to content
SAU Community

25 To S13 Conversion Questions


Simon-S14
 Share

Recommended Posts

did one ages ago and didnt have these issues before (or if i did, its too many bourbons ago and ive seem to have forgotten) but two questions,

1) RB is in, with a31 xmember, theres 15mm between the back of the motor and the firewall, and no room between the radiator and the motor for any cooling fans, the set up had AU fans on the rad before, they wont fit at all now, neither will the factory clutch fan, what have people done before?

p1030005nu2.th.jpg

2) box xmember, doesnt line up at all as expected, neither does a CA one or any other S13/R32 one, custom job needed?

cheers guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did my conversion using the R33 crossmember, but still made custom mounts.

Have about 7cm room behind engine to firewall. This setup made the RB25 gear shifter located in the std position. A slimline fan can then be mounted on cooler, infront of engine. My own fan is not slim, so mounted on other side of cooler. Blowing through it.

It still works.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use these FLEX-A-LITE fans from Hardiman in nsw (autobarn/repco also supply) http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/low-p...e-electric.html combne it with the drift digital radiator controller and you can set the on temps with an in cabin digital display and overtemp warn etc ( only $169)

i use this on setup cats and it is the only fan setup that i have found that can handle drift comfortably, i tried davies craig and ice but niether cut it. The beauty of these fans is that the harbonic balancer sits right between the two fans... close but not touching and it seals around the radiator perfectley with a nice rubber seal, (nearly the exact size of the whole radiator)

Gearbox mount : use sr20 manual xmember with extensions bolted on. Use decent grade flat bar see atached pic.

post-34927-1199372277_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'm guesing the only way to maximise cooling is to remove the A/C condenser and scrap the entire A/C system.

Currently I've got a 10inch craig davies fan behind the radiator and infront of the condenser on the driver's side and boy does the car overheat like a bitch in summer, thats granny driving with the A/C on.

Would a flexalite fan fit between the motor and the radiator in the middle? there's like 5 cm clearance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'm guesing the only way to maximise cooling is to remove the A/C condenser and scrap the entire A/C system.

Currently I've got a 10inch craig davies fan behind the radiator and infront of the condenser on the driver's side and boy does the car overheat like a bitch in summer, thats granny driving with the A/C on.

Would a flexalite fan fit between the motor and the radiator in the middle? there's like 5 cm clearance

it will work with a/c (we run two large oil coolers and pwr steer cooler mounted in front of rad and a 115mm cooler :) ) if you use the flex-a-lite fans, you could keep the extra front fan too for extra safety. on cats car now with the greddy 40mm radiator and 26 harmonic balancer (ALOT bigger than 25) i have had to remove some ribbing on the fan shrouds (1min job) but it all still fits as the harmonic balancer sits in the low section between the fans. (see red dot in attached pic) Bear in mind these fans are some of the best money can buy so dont expect to pay davies craig prices. search the part number 220 (google) for pricing then ring around, i know they are instock so price matching would be easy.

dimensions are 39.4cm x 66.7 x 6.6cm (remmber 6.6cm is the middle of the flex-alite fan metal plate which is the silver part in pic) with this metal plate removed it frees up another 5-9mm.

post-34927-1199410976_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1199415684_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so you run just those thermo's on cats car!!! nothing else????

yeah the twin 12" work fine, i also use a NISMO thermostat. As for switching i like to use the drift fan controller to engage two separate relays one for each fan and each relay runs a 50ish amp circuit breaker (avail any auto shop) so that in the case they over heat they dont shut down for good.... they will cool down and reset. i used a pivot fan controller originally but it was shit and caused the fans to stop working on more than one occasion.

i also use large gauge wiring as i found out after doing a strobe test on the fan speed that with the orginal wiring i used only ran the fans at 80% not at full speed... so spend the time on the 12v supply (i used audio 6awg) you should be laughing.

9510_2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For some reason it seems that on Cat's car there seems to be a greater distance from the CAS to the radiator, i.e. there's more room from the crank to the radiator. It seems I've got less room

measure from the balancer to the radiator for me :O (must be soon though as i board a plane for HK then japan later tonight)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

post pic of yours john

all: would this work to give more room, by tilting it forward?

editpc6.th.jpg

After swapping to the greddy rad (nearly 3.5 times the core width) i welded in a lower R32 front rad support and notched the s13 upper (and plated it for strength) but with the std GTR and JJR style aluminium rads i could still fit the flex-a-lite fans.

Tilting it forward will help abit but the bottom stays pretty much the same distance from crank... maybe 3mm diff at max lean.

Cars like Kuroi run a squat custom radiator and move it right forward and sit it in the A/C condensor mounts, but this was too much of a comprimise for me, i wanted off the shelf radiators etc to fit so that in the case of a accident it could be fixed easily without custom parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the clearance on my car looks very similar to Simons.

If I didn't have an A/C I would be sweet just running 2x 12 thermos pushing, but yeah.

Look at the flex-a-lite fans, they seem to be thicker than the Davies Craig fans.

12" Flex-a-lite 140 pusher -> 6.66 cm

12" Davies Craig DCSL12 -> 5.1 cm

I'm currently using the 10" Davies Craig DCSL10 and its 6.4cm thick, its about 3cm from the crank, if I moved it any more closer it would touch the crank.

Mind you, if I did use the 2x 12 flexalite fans, there would be another problem, it would touch the A/C compressor & power steering pump..

Edited by johnnilicte
Link to comment
Share on other sites

the clearance on my car looks very similar to Simons.

If I didn't have an A/C I would be sweet just running 2x 12 thermos pushing, but yeah.

Look at the flex-a-lite fans, they seem to be thicker than the Davies Craig fans.

12" Flex-a-lite 140 pusher -> 6.66 cm

12" Davies Craig DCSL12 -> 5.1 cm

I'm currently using the 10" Davies Craig DCSL10 and its 6.4cm thick, its about 3cm from the crank, if I moved it any more closer it would touch the crank.

Mind you, if I did use the 2x 12 flexalite fans, there would be another problem, it would touch the A/C compressor & power steering pump..

yeah the stock flex-a-lite ones are, but they are nothing like the low profile fans.... i could only fit one davies craig fan way off to the side of the rad... now its got the twin flex-a-lite one fitted no worries....

i dont remmeber referring to the 140 anywhere especially as a pusher??

looking at simons pics there should be plenty of room... you only need 4-6mm ish of clearance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry i copied the wrong thing, should have been the 120 puller,

but anyhow, the fan you recommended is the 220 puller, which is part of the "Low Profile" range.

Still the top height of the fan is 6.66cm, would be fine on the driver's side, but i have a feeling it would touch the power steering pump and A/C pump.

Makes me wonder now, I'm hanging to head back home and measure up!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok clearance is as follows:

rad to CAS = 90mm

rad to pwr steer nut= 65mm

rad to pwr steer pulley= 73mm

rad to balancer pulley = 50mm

all these clearances are enough for the fans to JUST fit, ie flexing them to sqeeze in then once in they have about 5 mm in all directions as a minimum for clearance and there is no rubbing issues.

i hope yours has as much ;) or else we need to find another solution for your car.... :O like moving rad towards engine (AC condensor forward towards cooler) and fitting fans to the front of the rad.

Simon (for your mates car) can you move rad back and fit the flex-a-lite 12" slimline pushers to the front instead of pullers?

post-34927-1199432969_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1199433022_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1199433036_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1199433051_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1199433068_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1199433334_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is typical (for a rb at least) with a medium to large turbo, noting the format of the graph is probably misleading what you see a little (half portrait width but full height, in landscape it would look quite different) Basically until it hits target boost the torque curve is rising steeply, when that is 4000+ rpm it is not great to drive since almost all of your life is between 1,000 and 3,000 rpm. Once you hit target boost the wastegate opens and torque stops rising so quickly. From there the shape of the curve depends mostly on the cams and where they have a peak vs the rev limiter
    • Last of the maintenance items for now....not sure why but the drivers side window switch had heaps of wear on the right front and right rear switches Unfortunately, unlike earlier Skylines the controls are bolted to the door trim from the inside. So....off the with door trim. There are bolts or screws: Behind the door handle cover, pop it off from the handle side Under the rubber trim at the bottom of the door pull (also just pops up) Behind the courtesy light at the bottom. Other than that, just window down then pop off the usual selection of push in clips around the perimeter and the trim lifts up Interesting that they have a bolt on cover instead of the old school plastic held on by goop....I guess they prioritised sound levels over price Then, 2 screws and 2 plugs to replace the switch (looks identical to the Fuga/Q70 one incidentally) and put it all back together. Also much better
    • ok I understand, but the majority of turbo vehicles lose torque, or have a flat torque curve after the spool.  hence my initial misunderstanding. I didn't think this type of curve was possible  
    • It is completely normal. Your original understanding is what was wrong, not what you see in the charts.
    • made with turbo and tuned by (hypergear)
×
×
  • Create New...