Jump to content
SAU Community

25 To S13 Conversion Questions


Simon-S14
 Share

Recommended Posts

thats a tight fit, but i reckon we'll do the same as that, why move the rad back for pushers? is there a benifit to running push over pull?

nah pull FTW, due to the conical shape of the fans and no condensor fitting the rad further back you would have heaps of room to front mount them, but i prefer pull type over push,

the only reason i mentioned it was to save cutting metal... only need to shorten rad hoses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was told that if you are not using a greddy style intake manifold, then you will have a hard time clearing the rad due to the IC piping(if running a thicker rad), this piping could be changed however I went through three stock rads last year so this year I am buying a new alum rad and forward facing intake manifold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The main problem I have is actually not the IC piping, but actually the crank/pulleys/PS pump/alternator/AC Compresser

I have a total of 53mm clearance from the PS pump and alternater, the slimmest fan I could find was the Davies Craig 12inch fan which is 51mm thick. Given that there's only 2mm of clearance, which I believe isn't safe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah the twin 12" work fine, i also use a NISMO thermostat. As for switching i like to use the drift fan controller to engage two separate relays one for each fan and each relay runs a 50ish amp circuit breaker (avail any auto shop) so that in the case they over heat they dont shut down for good.... they will cool down and reset. i used a pivot fan controller originally but it was shit and caused the fans to stop working on more than one occasion.

i also use large gauge wiring as i found out after doing a strobe test on the fan speed that with the orginal wiring i used only ran the fans at 80% not at full speed... so spend the time on the 12v supply (i used audio 6awg) you should be laughing.

9510_2.jpg

would you mind doing a quick diagram of how you set it up? i bought one of those drift fan controllers you suggested and am using 2 12" sonic thermo fans.

when using large gauge wiring is that from battery to the fans only?

no need to change any of the wiring that came with the controller?

would you recommend using the nismo t/stat instead of a genuine nissan one also?

my car is only used for drift as well so no aircon etc

thanks very much

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Simon is the box in yet? If so, how did you find the shifter to line up with the shifter hole in the S13 chasis? Any pics of this if possible?

Eventually il be putting a 25 in my 180....just waiting to get the motor back together at the moment!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn't cause me any problems, well kinda 1, when I'm in 1st or 5th, the leather shift boot is really tight. Other than that no dramas!

I'm not too sure what cross member I'm using, but for the gearbox using the CA18DET one.

I bougth my car with the motor in it .. I only know how to wire up a RB into a S13.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The main problem I have is actually not the IC piping, but actually the crank/pulleys/PS pump/alternator/AC Compresser

I have a total of 53mm clearance from the PS pump and alternater, the slimmest fan I could find was the Davies Craig 12inch fan which is 51mm thick. Given that there's only 2mm of clearance, which I believe isn't safe.

Did you check out SPAL fans from PWR? I use one in mine, much thinnner and massive CFM increase over the davies craig

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
    • Here's the torque curves from the car I ramped boost up later in the rpm to allow a slightly wider useful power curve - the power curve is a bit weird shaped also thanks to the TVIS (or whatever they call it with the 4EFTE in this Starlet) which changes the volume of the intake manifold throughout the rpm range, but you can see that the green power curve actually holds later on with the extra boost... but looks almost more like the kind of thing you'd expect from a cam or exhaust change
×
×
  • Create New...