Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wohoo got defected tonight, damn summernats cops ,, grrr :P

anyways Ive been done for being too low, i.e. the lowest part on my car (my exhaust) not being at least 4inches, but they have ticked the suspension/steering check box as the defect.. so looks like Im going to have to get springs to pass pits. . however, does anyone know if stock 33 springs will fit into TEIN coilovers ?? or what will ?

the bastards ticked the full inspection check box too, so can anyone comment what else (out of the following mods) they will pick on??

HKS Air Pod (fully secured, but not in an enclosed box)

Front Mount IC

Boost guage on dash

Turbo Timer

tinted windows (think they will defn get me here)

full 3inch apexi exhaust (gonna buy a silencer to quieten before i go in)

manual boost controller

Apexi Blow Off Valve

Strut Brace

TEIN Coilovers

cheers,

JD

Edited by JD-33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200210-summernats-defect/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

wohoo got defected tonight, damn summernats cops ,, grrr :P

anyways Ive been done for being too low, i.e. the lowest part on my car (my exhaust) not being at least 4inches, but they have ticked the suspension/steering check box as the defect.. so looks like Im going to have to get springs to pass pits. . however, does anyone know if stock 33 springs will fit into TEIN coilovers ?? or what will ?

the bastards ticked the full inspection check box too, so can anyone comment what else (out of the following mods) they will pick on??

HKS Air Pod (fully secured, but not in an enclosed box)

Front Mount IC

Boost guage on dash

Turbo Timer

tinted windows (think they will defn get me here)

full 3inch apexi exhaust (gonna buy a silencer to quieten before i go in)

manual boost controller

Apexi Blow Off Valve

cheers,

JD

HKS Air Pod (fully secured, but not in an enclosed box) <--should be fine

Front Mount IC <--needs to be engineered

Boost guage on dash <--needs to be engineered

Turbo Timer not sure

tinted windows (think they will defn get me here) <--depends how tinted

full 3inch apexi exhaust (gonna buy a silencer to quieten before i go in) <--not sure should be fine

manual boost controller <--not sure think its illegal

Apexi Blow Off Valve <--iillegal (lets of bad gases into air or something

thats what i have about dickson

cheers r33gtst,, hmm doesnt sound good ..

might be easier to just bolt back on the stock i/c instead of getting the front mount engineered. Hovever, If I was to get the I/C engineered, who in Canberra could do that ??

boost guage on dash will just be removed, that'll be easy.

instead of getting my car raised with springs, i think ill just replace my exhaust, as its the point on the car which is illegally low,, will take care of noise issues which they may pick up on too.

cheers for the info..

JD

Edited by JD-33

Hi JD,

Dickson is really inconsistent. I've seen some people get away with things that others got picked up on. So here's my 2cents:

does anyone know if stock 33 springs will fit into TEIN coilovers ?? or what will ? - the standard springs will not fit into your Teins, different diameter. Also, they tend not to like height adjustable coilovers. One of my brothers just wound them up so the car was legal height and he got away with it while my other brother had to get his coilovers engineered and locked off at a certain height to pass.

HKS Air Pod (fully secured, but not in an enclosed box) - if the airfilter is exposed, it is considered a fire hazzard so they might pick on that

Front Mount IC - if it isn't original from factory, they won't like it. it changes emissions etc etc

Boost guage on dash - i think it depends on where it's positioned, ie: does it restrict vision, is it likely to cause injury in case of crash

Turbo Timer - illegal, for safety reasons, it will keep the engine running incase of a crash

tinted windows (think they will defn get me here) - depends on how dark

full 3inch apexi exhaust (gonna buy a silencer to quieten before i go in) - depends on what sort of a silencer your planning on getting. They don't like the ones that attach to the exhaust tips, they'll want you to weld it in. They also know about people getting "rego mufflers" just for the inspection. My brother did get away with his but they did make a note on the inspection sheet. It looked pretty funny, a 3inch pipe reduced to a 1 1/4 inch pipe and a Hyundai muffler.

manual boost controller - manual or electronic, all illegal, changes performance, emissions etc - that's if they find it though

Apexi Blow Off Valve - only legal if it's plumbed back into the system, if it vents to atmosphere again it changes emissions, fire hazzard etc

Strut Brace - should be ok as long as it's secured and not obstructing anything in the engine bay

TEIN Coilovers - like I said above. I was also talking to a suspension guy the other day and he mensioned that the inspectors won't pass poor quality coilovers like Pedders ones so I don't know.....you could just try your luck raising the car with them but because you got defected for being too low, chances are they'll look closely at the suspension in which case you might need standard struts and springs to pass. By law, the lowest part of the car (it's usually the exhaust) has to be at least 100mm off the ground.

If you have standard parts, you're probly better off putting them back on the car. It's a pain in the ass but gives the inspectors less things to pick on. If you want stuff engineered, I recommend Ray Spence at Canberra Motor works in Mitchell.

Hope I was some help.

Cheers

J

cheers Tarmac, the info is much appreciated !

roughly how much will an engineering certificate cost from Canberra Motor works ? i.e. if I wanted the intercooler engineered ?

cheers,

JD

No idea, sorry. If you call Ray, he'll explain what's involved.

Cheers

J

Turbo Timer

TEIN Coilovers

cheers,

JD

if its not too late, i got an engineer to look at my car because i've been failed by dickson, but they didnt pick up the turbo timer, an engineer said it has to be connected to the handbrake so if the handbrake is off, the engine turns off straight away, but if the handbrake is up, then the engine can keep running, mine was already connected to it though.

i only got told by dickson to have the car legal height and to paint a line across both winding parts of my coilovers then extend the paint onto the thread so it all lines up and shows if its been moved or not.

dickson didnt say anything about my hks air filter last time but this time they might (booked in on thursday)

hope some of that helps

Hey mate

i'd hold off on teh engineers cert as they cost over $500.

HKS Air Pod (fully secured, but not in an enclosed box) - is fine in the ACT - NSW must be enclosed.

Front Mount IC - should be fine if is a good/ clean install

Boost guage on dash - place it out of sight somewhere.

Turbo Timer - they didn't worry about mine, but just miove it under the dash somewhere out of sight.

tinted windows (think they will defn get me here) - I had to remove tint from the rear window (mongrel job...)

full 3inch apexi exhaust (gonna buy a silencer to quieten before i go in) noise test is at 3000rpm, see if you can get it tested at a garage somewhere first)

manual boost controller - place out of view

Apexi Blow Off Valve - they will hit you for this unless it is plumb back (you could even run some dummy pipe to a hidden location if it has that option)

Strut Brace - fine

TEIN Coilovers - fine, just wind them up.

BTW, my exhaust scrapped and they still passed it LOL!

cheers,

JD

full 3inch apexi exhaust (gonna buy a silencer to quieten before i go in) noise test is at 3000rpm, ...

To clarify - To pass the noise test, it has to be less than 90 dB and NOT 3000 rpm as per below.

4.2.3.3 Where the ESMP for that engine has not been determined by the testing

authority then the engine shall be brought to and stabilised at a speed as close

as the testing officer can achieve to one of the following speeds:

In the case of a passenger car or derivative, if the engine has:

(i) 5 cylinders or less 4000 rpm

(ii) 6 cylinders and is

manufactured before 1995 3200 rpm

manufactured in 1995 or later 3600 rpm

(iii) 8 cylinders and is

manufactured before 2000 3300 rpm

manufactured in 2000 or later 3900 rpm

(iv) more than 8 cylinders 4300 rpm

(v) If the engine is a rotary engine 4500 rpm

www.ntc.gov.au/filemedia/Reports/NatStatExhaustNoiseTestSept2006.pdf

Edited by Ecstasy

HKS Air Pod (fully secured, but not in an enclosed box) ----- As long as your pod is secure it will be fine.

Front Mount IC ------ If they see a front mount they will most likely send you to get an EPA emissions test.

Boost guage on dash ------ Illegal if it is in the wrong position, youre better off removing entirely.

Turbo Timer ------ Illegal without engineers certificate.

tinted windows (think they will defn get me here) ------ Depends on how dark.

full 3inch apexi exhaust (gonna buy a silencer to quieten before i go in) ------- As long as your decibel limit is under 90 youre fine.

manual boost controller ----- Illegal without engineers certificate.

Apexi Blow Off Valve ----- All atmospheric blow off valves are illegal.

Strut Brace ----- Fine.

TEIN Coilovers ------ All adjustable coilovers are illegal without engineers certificate.

Be aware that if you have to go for an EPA test - you probably wont pass... If you take a stock VE Clubsport to be tested they dont pass, even if you take it there straight from the showroom. The rules are stupid.

Also if you have "staggered fitment" wheels and tyres you will need to change them for stockies as they're illegal.

This is exactly why I didnt drive my car that whole weekend...

Cops are tops!! ---- Sarcasm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...