Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Cv Joint/boot Replacement In Perth

Scratch

By Scratch,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Scratch Collaborator

Scratch

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I'm after advice from perth stagea or skyline owners who have had their cv boots replaced/joints overhauled, specifically recommendations on where to get it done. I need to get a front outer CV boot replaced on my stagea, and my mechanics can do it but I'm being charged about 3 1/2 hours of labour + parts for it. I searched the forums and found most people (stagea owners included) mentioning its about 88 - 120 dollars (supplied + fitted) for a boot replacement through a CV joint specialist.

I have taken it to 2 CV joint specialists in perth so far but with zero luck. One mob said they have to cut the cv joint just to replace the outer boot along with a new CV joint (!). Another place looks at it says no worries, books it in and then goes sorry we dont know what to do with this one. Called a few other places (so I dont waste my time) and they have no idea what a stagea or skyline is.

Worst case scenario I suppose I can try DIY but the lack of knowledge, tools and a copy of the FSM (in english) makes the mechanic option more cost effective. Just thought I'd check before I end up spending too much money.

Cheers! :(

Edited by Scratch
R DIRTY 3 Grand Master

R DIRTY 3

Posted
Posted

If he questions what a Stagea is, tell him its basically a GTR. I currently have an R33 GTR in the workshop and he has the driveshafts to rebuild and new boots etc....so he should be able to do your Stagea.

  • 2 weeks later...
Scratch Collaborator

Scratch

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Booked the car into Allan's yestarday, they were closed till the 14th of this month. I cant rave enough about how good these guys are, they took one look at the car on the hoist and went "this has the same running gear as the r33 GTR". The total cost of replacing both the inner and outer RHF boots was 160 supplied and fitted (a far cry less than the rest of the quotes), for once my wallet didnt get raped for owning an import. Wish there was more workshops like this in perth.

Edited by Scratch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • GTSBoy
      SR20 to cefiro

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
×
×
  • Create New...