Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, I have a prob with my girlfriends drivers side window. After lowering the window last night, the window will now not go up again. The motor still runs and lowers the window, (when raised by pulling up on the glass with the door trim off.) But it seems that the motor jams when the switch is pushed to raise. It also doesnt stop the motor when it reaches the top and bottom of its travel.

If anyone has encountered this before please let me know what you did to fix it.

HELP! >_<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200324-electric-window-problems/
Share on other sites

Hey Guys, I have a prob with my girlfriends drivers side window. After lowering the window last night, the window will now not go up again. The motor still runs and lowers the window, (when raised by pulling up on the glass with the door trim off.) But it seems that the motor jams when the switch is pushed to raise. It also doesnt stop the motor when it reaches the top and bottom of its travel.

If anyone has encountered this before please let me know what you did to fix it.

HELP! :(

its the motor. There is a big nylon cog inside the motor which over time the teeth start to break. It goes down coz gravity helps it but on the way up its slipping. (prolly makes a disgusting noise too)

this is also why the motor doesn't stop at the top as the relay cuts when the motor hits a certain load caused by the window physically not being able to go any further. this doesn't happen coz the cog is slipping

if u want a genuine new motor off nissan they want $450 (the stupid option :))

i think when i called around for mine most wreckers sold em from $90 to $150.

im also lead to believe there is a place in preston that sells a different motor that fits with the correct plug attached. Cant remember its name off the top of my head but if do a search you should find the thread when i asked pretty much the same question.

Cheers

Camden

yehh this happen to me a few months ago..i was using my window when i heard a "clang"

when to a mechanic and they got a new motor frm a auto parts shop or wreakers

altogether it cost me $100 incl them taking out the door installing it blah blah blah

but it should cost you around $90 for the motor

GL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...