Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you were to take a hammer to a fibreglass bumper it'll crack and so on. if you were to do the same to a polyeurathane bumper (factory plastic) they'll usually absorb the hit and retain their original shape. only under great stress will they crack or warp.

They usually also weigh less, as the fibreglass bumpers are layers of dense resin and fibreglass matting. polyurethane is a relatively lighter material.

some states also deem fibreglass body panels illegal on cars of a certain age (check with your road transport authority).

that said, fibreglass is easier to work on and fix, and you have a much larger choice of styles to choose from. There are also some manufacturers who use a middle ground resin that isn't as dense and retains its elasticity, making the fibreglass bumpers a bit more flexible etc.

if you were to take a hammer to a fibreglass bumper it'll crack and so on. if you were to do the same to a polyeurathane bumper (factory plastic) they'll usually absorb the hit and retain their original shape. only under great stress will they crack or warp.

They usually also weigh less, as the fibreglass bumpers are layers of dense resin and fibreglass matting. polyurethane is a relatively lighter material.

some states also deem fibreglass body panels illegal on cars of a certain age (check with your road transport authority).

that said, fibreglass is easier to work on and fix, and you have a much larger choice of styles to choose from. There are also some manufacturers who use a middle ground resin that isn't as dense and retains its elasticity, making the fibreglass bumpers a bit more flexible etc.

I heard that the paint from fibreglass kit comes off easily compared to plastic ones. Is that right?

no, that depends on the primer used, the paint used, curing time and so on. a properly prepped and painted fibreglass kit will hold paint as well as any eurathane bumper.

Just another small thingy, am thinking of getting a Nissan Aero/Sports/Altia Front Bar which i believe is suppose to be of plastic material

Do they come pre-painted in Series 1 colours only (yellow, red, white) or Series 2 colours as well, i.e. bayside Blue (TV2)

Am told by a local importer a diff story. He said he can acquire a OEM aero front bar from Nissan but the the front bar needs to be painted. Said something abouth these kits as being replacement in accidents, etc hence the need for painting. Can someone clarify this?

Edited by hotchoc
Just another small thingy, am thinking of getting a Nissan Aero/Sports/Altia Front Bar which i believe is suppose to be of plastic material

Do they come pre-painted in Series 1 colours only (yellow, red, white) or Series 2 colours as well, i.e. bayside Blue (TV2)

Am told by a local importer a diff story. He said he can acquire a OEM aero front bar from Nissan but the the front bar needs to be painted. Said something abouth these kits as being replacement in accidents, etc hence the need for painting. Can someone clarify this?

You'll find that many oem plastics come unpainted, it's usually only smaller things like mud flaps come prepainted.

Much cheaper and easier for manufacturer to sell unpainted, than to produce say X amount of bumper bars in black, X amount in white etc.

You'll find that many oem plastics come unpainted, it's usually only smaller things like mud flaps come prepainted.

Much cheaper and easier for manufacturer to sell unpainted, than to produce say X amount of bumper bars in black, X amount in white etc.

Yeah makes sense in terms of economics n profit margin wise.

I'll be damn though if the oem kit which i thought is plastic turns out to be some fibreglass copy.

Can you get aftermarket plasic kits? Or kits made up in plastic? I'm not sure I like the idea of using what sounds like very weak fibreglass! Otherwise, I'd guess I have to

there are some manufacturers that make aftermarket kits in urethane (do a search on ebay with "worldwide" ticked). not quite OEM spec, but close enough.

Does anyone know if it is possible to get a nismo 400r PU front bar for an R33?? I'm sick of fibreglass, it never looks right when its painted and 1 little scrape and they start to look like a scrappy canoe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
×
×
  • Create New...