Jump to content
SAU Community

Racing Harness

R34 Sedan

By R34 Sedan,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

R34 Sedan Community Regular

R34 Sedan

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I have a farked back, and need to push my ares hard in to the back of the seat, with the belt very tight.

When I do this the belt put's to much pressure on one side of my body (and doesn't hold my spine straight), which causes further back pain.

I'd like to look at installing a racing harness (for street use) so I'm held in the seat even.

Dose anyone know if it's possible to fit a harness to the standard seat of an R34 GT-T, if so what are the legalities, and would I need an engineers certificate.

Last of all any idea where I would have it fitted.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200348-racing-harness/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

a proper harness with quick release wont be legal for street use. also I would recommend against using a 4 point belt with a standard seat anyway as it has no belt guides around your neck and even worse no neck guides for the lap belts which leaves them free to move. in an accident it's possible you will 'submarine' under the belts and be in real trouble.

if you have a back problem perhaps look at a fixed back bucket seat. they give full back support and are of course compatible with a 4 or even 6 point harness. plus they protect your whole spine and will not easily snap in half like a factory seat will, they also promote a more upright seating position which wont hurt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200348-racing-harness/#findComment-3565272
Share on other sites
R34 Sedan Community Regular

R34 Sedan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I thought about that but it's difficult because the seats never feel the same in the show room as they do when fitted to the car.

In a previous car I had a good quality Recaro, which felt great in the show room, but once fitted to the car (different angle, height, etc) it felt terrible, and I ended up removing it.

Also do these bucket seats have any adjustable lumbar support?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200348-racing-harness/#findComment-3578617
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • niZmO_Man
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...