Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Restrictor On A Garrrett Gt3582r

JonTurpening

By JonTurpening,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rezlo Community Regular

Rezlo

Posted
Posted

You dont need to prime it, cranking the motor over initialy to get oil presure will feed the turbo, during cranking with the spark plugs out (how you should crank over a new motor to build oil presure) the turbo will not spin, even with the spark plugs in it will hardly turn, only once its started will you need that oil there fairly rapidly.

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

i run the factory banjo with restrictor off the block, as well as the inbuilt garret one, this is what Cubes does also. neither of us have had any dramas (mine has done a few track days now, and cubes has done 70,000 kms or someshit lol)

JonTurpening Enthusiast

JonTurpening

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've got an update.

I sent my turbo back to the Garrett supplier Blouch Turbo, along with the restrictor I purchased from ATP. Mike at Blouch wanted to see it. Well I called him back today and he tells me that the restrictor has what looks like to him as a drill bit broke off in it! He said this is what starved the turbo for oil. That ATP should send me a new CHRA. I also contacted the shop that I ordered it from. Dynoformance. I tell the owner Andrew what is going on, he wanted me to keep him up-to-date. He tells me that he has gotten a restrictor from them that wasn’t even drilled all the way out! Now he did say that ATP warranted his turbo with no questions asked. Now I’m waiting for ATP to open and see what they tell me. I’ll let everyone know how it goes.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

That's pretty dodgy.

Simon/Cubes: This factory restrictor.. is it actually part of the factory banjo (block side)?

If so I can just reuse the factory banjo and have a braided line soldered (braised? whatever) on?

Edited by bubba
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
That's pretty dodgy.

Simon/Cubes: This factory restrictor.. is it actually part of the factory banjo (block side)?

If so I can just reuse the factory banjo and have a braided line soldered (braised? whatever) on?

It is... There is a restrictor in the banjo and bolt. I did exactly that. Reused the banjo and the bolt and had pirtek solder a new piece of bundy tube to it then bent accordingly to the turbo. Lines up perfectly and is actually quite easy to fit/remove. Best of all the turbo oil feed in total only cost ~$40 for a durable solid metal feed. :)

In total my motor has done a little over 70k but the turbo has only done around 12,000km's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...