Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did you have them do the job, or bought off someone who did?

Do you have any detailed pics of the unit prior to installation that might show the ID tag, or are you able to read them in-situ? It'd be interesting to know what spec you have.

A fairly common MTQ high flow for RB seems to be the BB GT2876 cartridge into stock housings. Despite some commentary about that spec being laggy, I know of a couple of people who ran it using OP6 housing and were very happy with the response and output (on an RB25 though).

I'm with the idea of getting the tune sorted. Provided the fueling is reasonable, get some ignition timing into it and watch things spark up. :D

Yeah im def thinking the tuned will help..i bought it off here but it seemed in great nick and it had 2000kms on it..ill try and see if i can see the id tags. There another little thing that got me worries which i thought was a leaking noise somewhere.. but Might not be a leaking noise after all..theres like a tinny rattle sound.. definety from the turbo side.

Edited by RaZ_TuRbO

RaZ to my way of thinking its more ignition timing to suit the engine not the turbo .

Generally when the factory specs small turbos for small capacity engines the gas passages have to be smallish to get enough gas speed into the turbine to spin it (and the compressor wheel) fast enough to make positive pressure - boost .

Small capacity engines , particularly low compression ratio ones , don't make much torque off boost so its more important to get boost happening sooner than a larger capacity engine would need .

The down side is that small passages become a restriction high up the rev range especially when the boost is greater than std . The factory knows this and tunes the computer around the amount of advance the std engine can take without detonation . Knock sensors and smart electronics try to keep it just under the detonation threshold for variables such as fuel octane and inlet temp etc .

Once you start to "uncork" the hot side the std computer doesn't know to compensate and ramp up the ignition timing .

It'll probably feel flat because the larger turbo passages and wheels have less restriction to exhaust flow meaning later onset of boost - turbo response is directly related to gas speed through its turbine blades and in this case the required gas speed will occur at higher revs .

When you can advance the ignition timing to its best torque point its firing the mixture at the most opportune time for the available cylinder pressure to do the most good - not just to suit emission or anti detonation requirements .

Bush/plate turbo bearings . Unfortunately a bit crude by todays standards and only still with us for costing reasons - arguably .

For a pair of bushes to support a shaft there needs to be a fair area in contact to do the job properly . The shaft actually floats on a layer of oil and its this oil shear drag that slows the rate of acceleration of the turbine/compressor group . The plate thrust bearing system also has the same problem only because its diametre is greater than the turbine shaft it has greater surface speed and they fail easily under highb shaft speeds and thrust loads .

Hardened steel ball bearings are a quantam leap because they have far less friction , only point contact between the balls and their races AND much much better thrust support . Annular contact BB's support radially and each support thrust loads in opposite directions so its all good .

The better BB turbo use open bladed light weight high speed wheels so less innertia to over come and are much more compact for similar gas flow rates than the old dinosaurs .

So if you've gone to a larger turbo with bush bearings its natural to expect it to be laggy all else being equal . I ah think a std RB25 turbo may have been a better first step given that they are reasonably cheap if you shop around and they bolt up with minor alterations .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...