Jump to content
SAU Community

Real Time Gps Gprs Gsm Car Tracker Alarm Tracking


gtr_z

Recommended Posts

do u have any for sale for the 295..

also curious how quick it sends u a message after the battery is dsconected.. meaning if u disconnect it for 5 seconds or less and put the power back on would it still sms u..? because i was thinkn u would b able to hook it up to a relay so when ya interiorlight comes on/door opens it will cut power ant send u an sms..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

do u have any for sale for the 295..

also curious how quick it sends u a message after the battery is dsconected.. meaning if u disconnect it for 5 seconds or less and put the power back on would it still sms u..? because i was thinkn u would b able to hook it up to a relay so when ya interiorlight comes on/door opens it will cut power ant send u an sms..

Yes, as mentioned before, you can use this method to trigger the alert. Once the main power gets disconnected for longer than 3 seconds, you will get the alert on your mobile phone. It usually takes around 5 to 8 seconds for you to get the alert from the time the main power is cut off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks gtr_z, my unit arrived about a week ago, I have just not had a chance to have a 'play' until now... actually got it about 4 or 5 days after paying via online transfer? Pretty quick!

Very impressed so far... comes with an active GPS antenna which even works accurately from inside my house (where other GPS's I've tested - bluetooth PC ones for instance - don't get a reliable signal).

A small caveat, FYI re: SIMs:

You need to disable the PIN code on your SIM, if you have set one whilst it was in a mobile phone, to use with the unit.

Great little device, should work nicely. My backup battery came to me charged and working too - switched it on right out of the box (after connecting antennas of course) :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

does anyone know if this has no GPS signal and you SMS it to ask it where it is, will it give you the last known GPS co-ordinate? i read in the details at the top that it will give you the GSM location but this is kinda useless if your in a big city and your car has been stolen and is in some garage somewhere, it would be good if it gave you the last known location then it would make it alot easier to locate?

also how long does the backup battery last for if power is cut to the unit?

Edited by R33_Cam
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The manufacturer claims the back-up battery will last for 48 hours if the main power to the unit is cut. I have never tested it myself, I can't really say for sure if it's accurate. The unit will alert you after 3 seconds if the main power is cut or if your battery dies anyway. The unit still works (all GPS, GSM & GPRS) even though it's well hidden in my car inside my full-brick lock-up garage.

Edited by gtr_z
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi mate, just wondering if you know if this will work with nokia N82/95/96 maps?

It should if you can enter the GPS coordinates manually on those phones the same way as you do on online maps such as Google Maps/Earth. You may want to check if your phone has this 'manual-entry' function.

Edited by gtr_z
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are a few variables here, some are relevant but not critical (IMHO) to help answer your question. The two major things: 1) Ignoring anything to do with forced induction - all engines have their own natural torque curve, and it will ALWAYS roll over higher in the rpm.  There is a fixed relationship between power and torque.  When dealing with kw and nm, the relationship between them is roughly: kw = (rpm * nm) / 9549 nm = (kw / rpm) * 9549 The peak torque of an engine (without boost) will typically climb until somewhere nearish the middle of it's operating rev range, give or take a bit - then start dropping again.   The nearer the minimum and maximum rpm of the engine the steeper that drop off tends to be. 2) Boost simply increases the density of the air going into the engine, which inflates the torque at that point.  The ramp up in the torque curve you see on a turbo engine is due to the boost rising, but it's essentially just multiplying the torque you'd see if it was naturally aspirated.  The roll over you see at the end will typically be what would have always happened with the engine, whether it was naturally aspirated or turbocharged.   If the torque never started dropping then power would climb infinitely. The cool thing about this is you absolutely can tune the power delivery to suit the needs of the owner and/or the limitations of the car, and I regularly do this.    With modern turbos we've got to the point where a setup that someone may run well over 20psi of boost with could actually reach target boost well under 4000rpm if the tuner/owner WANTED to - and a lot of people seem to do this when there is actually no realistic benefit, generally it just adds a massive amount of strain to the engine and drivetrain and often actually makes the car harder to drive. As a general rule I tend to tune the boost curves for cars I tune to reach a "useful" torque level through the rev range and will often end up with a curve that ramps hard to a point, then creeps for the rest of the rev range - not to make the boost curve "soft" as such, but more to make sure its neither laggy nor pointlessly violent in it's delivery.   There have been cars I've tuned to be almost like a centrifugal supercharger (or naturally-aspirated-ish) where they actually only hit like 8psi of boost before opening the gate, then ramp up the next 10psi over the rev range... if the car is "loose enough" to drive. On the flip side I've tuned a car that had stock cams and the engine's natural torque curve fell over HARD in the higher rpm and resulted in a slightly awkward power curve to work with, in that case I actually started ramping up boost to boost torque in a way to offset the engines "NA" torque drop off... at peak rpm actually running a good 5psi+ more boost that what the "flat curve" would have defined.  This gave the owner an extra 500rpm or so of useable rev range, and had a fairly solid impact on times he was running at motorsport events due to being able to hold gears a bit longer and also falling into a more useful part of the rev range in the following gears. Here's an example of an RB in a GTSt I've done the "softened" boost curve to not pointlessly ramp straight to the max boost target early in the rpm, but still made sure it builds useful boost.  If you went in the car you'd not guess at all that the boost curve was doing anything "weird", it feels like it spools immediately and accelerates relentlessly (traction dependent) and holds to max rpm.   I don't know if you'd guess what the boost curve was doing by driving the car, or even looking at the dyno plot... but imho it suits the combination.  
    • therefore on the first examples, as we see, changing cams (graph 2) influences the quantity of torque at high revs its OK for me. so a tuner can act on the wastegate via the boost controller to increase the boost at high revs? on the last example, the boost does not decrease ok, but the torque does. this can come from cams etc etc ok. but on the other curves the boost is not constant, it increases, this is what I find strange to my mind. even more so if it comes from the relief valve. sorry I'm very new don't blame me. in my mind I couldn't imagine how the boost could be higher after the spool  
    • right, but fundamentally, for a given mechanical setup, you are either using all the torque (and therefore power) it will give, or you are choosing to run it less efficiently. Many tuners will have a practice of identifying peak available torque and then winding it back a couple of % for safety, but unless you are working around a very specific issue like a weak gearbox, there is nothing to be gained by making 20 or 30% less than the engine can
    • You can manipulate the torque delivery by ramping in boost gently, then throwing it all in after peak torque to keep the torque flat. It's nothing magical.
    • Tuning the wastegate to do it. That is all. Most people want the boost to not fall off like the most recent example. Those also look like dyno runs with an Auto/Torque converter setup, which does fun things to the graph. The boost tapers down like that because the turbo cannot supply the same amount of air at 7000rpm that it can at 3000 in terms of PSI. That, or the tuner has decided that it tapering off like that is what someone chose to do. IF you have a wastegate that can't bleed enough air to slow the turbine, and IF that turbo can flow enough air to feed the engine at high RPM, you get 'boost creep' which is a rise of boost pressure beyond what you are capable of controlling and/or want. None of these show symptoms of that, but if you had a run that was 20psi at 3000rpm, and 27psi at 7000rpm, it could be an example of that. Or simply that the person wanted boost later for their own reasons... The dyno graphs don't always show the full context.
×
×
  • Create New...