Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

depends where the cop who is doing the defect sends you!

oh its not for a defect..i bought my car from VIC and need to get it registered here in SA so it has to get checked and all but my hicas has a little leak so im gonna put a hicas lock bar there instead.

Hi, I've changed two cars over from different states and you don't need a check at all. As long as the car is being registered in the same name as in the previous state you just go into the office and show them id and your previous rego slip. Hand over the old plates and they'll give you new ones.

Cheers,

Matt

oh its not for a defect..i bought my car from VIC and need to get it registered here in SA so it has to get checked and all but my hicas has a little leak so im gonna put a hicas lock bar there instead.

He is putting the car in his name though so at the very least you will have to go to sturt, just depends who you get on the day as to wether it will pass or not. If you havnt already purchased one we have them in stock for $99.

Ryan

Hi, I've changed two cars over from different states and you don't need a check at all. As long as the car is being registered in the same name as in the previous state you just go into the office and show them id and your previous rego slip. Hand over the old plates and they'll give you new ones.

Cheers,

Matt

so hopefully u changed the name on the interstate rego to ur name, then there will be no hassles :D

my car ended in inspection cos it was registered in the interstate owners name, and the person that i got it from never put it in their name (previous SA owner)... i made sure that they cleared it all with regency b4 i bought it and only had to empty my wallet for the rego/stamp duty/interstate transfer fee/new plates.

He is putting the car in his name though so at the very least you will have to go to sturt, just depends who you get on the day as to wether it will pass or not. If you havnt already purchased one we have them in stock for $99.

Ryan

You sell hicas lockbars? Want one for my car, stupid hicas light flashs on when i turn a bend at speed then goes off once i straighten up, gets annoying.

Sorry bit off topic but one quick question, does the hicas have anything to do with the power steering? Hicas light comes on and i lose power steering, Fill up the power steering well and the light goes off and i get power steering back..?

You sell hicas lockbars? Want one for my car, stupid hicas light flashs on when i turn a bend at speed then goes off once i straighten up, gets annoying.

Sorry bit off topic but one quick question, does the hicas have anything to do with the power steering? Hicas light comes on and i lose power steering, Fill up the power steering well and the light goes off and i get power steering back..?

Hicas provides active feedback to the steering wheel... think Force Feedback on an arcade game...you know there are no kinetic forces but the actuators are giving you more of a feel... faster u go, the stiffer the steering gets, which is ideal... one of the worst things about power steering is the overresponsiveness (is that a word?) at high speed... hicas mitigates this to a degree thru the steering wheel (or Boss kit if u get an aftermarket system).... theres another forum thread which goes thru the ins and outs of hicas... basically it helps when you're an inexperienced race driver or an everyday driver... if you do any serious track work, chances are your skills will be higher than required for hicas, however that said, hicas can cause a very steep, very quick corner exit if you have the skills for it, as even a small amount of rear wheel toe in has a significant effect on cornering (Apparently, Dont look at me for details, im a noob)...

No doubt it un-nerves anyone whos not used to it, but once u get used to it you'll wonder how you lived without it... as mentioned before, nissan have kept hicas since the r31, so I really doubt theres any convincing reason to get a lock bar, aside from finances, or superultramegahardcore racing

I have hicas problems at the moment myself. im hoping when i get time to calibrate the system It'll come good, otherwise I'd rather spend the money to get the hicas fixed good and proper. Lock bars are for the hardcore, and i'm not hardcore.

-D

Edited by Dohmar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
×
×
  • Create New...