Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

check out this youtube video on the Varex Remote controll Muffler its bad quality video but

it shows you all about it, i am trying to get 1 now, i just dont know if it will hurt my exhaust valves or even my cat what do you guys think, the bypass makes me think it wont

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200754-varex-remote-control-muffler/
Share on other sites

check out this youtube video on the Varex Remote controll Muffler its bad quality video but

it shows you all about it, i am trying to get 1 now, i just dont know if it will hurt my exhaust valves or even my cat what do you guys think, the bypass makes me think it wont

That's pretty mad... I've got an APEXi ECV (standard butterfly valve) on my 33... lol well kinda! The idea was to hook it up to the motor that came factory with the car, but I've never gotten around to doing the cable.. so it's 100% open all the time! When I manually close it up (to about 90%... don't want it 100% blocked!) it's not too much different at idle/low revs but really noticeable at higher revs. I must note that i have a VERY LOUD exhaust on mine... only intensified by the fact that it's NA :D

That's pretty mad... I've got an APEXi ECV (standard butterfly valve) on my 33... lol well kinda! The idea was to hook it up to the motor that came factory with the car, but I've never gotten around to doing the cable.. so it's 100% open all the time! When I manually close it up (to about 90%... don't want it 100% blocked!) it's not too much different at idle/low revs but really noticeable at higher revs. I must note that i have a VERY LOUD exhaust on mine... only intensified by the fact that it's NA :D

haha nice my mate i used to work with hooked up a throttle body to his exhaust that disconected it from the muffler was loud as f**k but i bet it lost a shit load of power any way it ended up melting it XD stupid fool

haha nice my mate i used to work with hooked up a throttle body to his exhaust that disconected it from the muffler was loud as f**k but i bet it lost a shit load of power any way it ended up melting it XD stupid fool

Power loss was half the reason i put the butterfly in... see it's a 3" system off a turbo (JASMA) but because mine is NA the power is too far up the rev range... i.e. I've got NOTHING until about 5K... then it pulls pretty hard up to 7.5K (limiter :D)

The way I understand it, for a turbo you gain backpressure between the exhaust valves and the turbo impella... whereas on NA, the exhaust needs to provide the backpressure. So for turbo, you want the most free-flowing exhaust possible, but for NA you need to make sure it's not too free flowing. My logic was that at idle, the valve would be almost shut, creating enough backpressure to bring my power down to a nice, usable rev range. as I reach 5K RPM, the valve would open, my power range would be shifted up a bit, and I would continue to have power to redline/limiter.

Because I've never gotten around to hooking it all up, I can't really test this theory though! Like so many other things on my to-do list... one day... one day...

If you're using this system with its valve closed off for street, day to day driving it should be fine. It's only when you're trying to push your engine is where I see problems occurring. The system is designed to make the car/engine quiet. If you want performance out of it as well, you're not gonna get any.

lol no one has awnserd if it could cause problems!~

With it's bypass system when closed, I can't see any problems occurring. Obviously you will loose some power as there is extra restriction in the line (I'm assuming you've got a turbo), but it's not gonna be that bad that it doesn't flow at all (which can cook a catallytic converter pretty quickly!). Just think of it like having a 1.5" exhaust instead! When you want power, you open it up and you've got power along with noise.

I was looking at these, but I wasn't sure how good they would be. I want one cos my car is very loud, and my neighbours r cops, and i want to be able 2 come home at early hours of the morning without waking my parents. Does anyone know anywhere in WA who sells them? Or will I have to get it sent over from Sydney?

From what I can see from other videos, you can control how much of the valve you want opened/closed.

I haven't got this installed myself, but having the valve closed fully shouldn't do any harm if you're just doing street driving. You shouldn't be trying to push the car with the valve closed anyway.

  • 1 year later...

Got one of these Varex's on my car saved me so many times from cops, even this morning pulled up next to a copper and he waited for me to take off and make noise but had it closed...

It does restrict your car on take-off if its closed if you are trying to drag off the line, obviously cause of restrictions but doesnt damage it at all driving with it closed have had mine for over a year now

You can set it at full open or full closed...but can have it set half way as well if you only want a bit of noise, sounds mad going through tunnels and turns heads all over the place

Any other questions PM me for details, I got mine done in Melb so I dont know dealers in other states, but I know there are a few in Sydney while I was up there was checking it out

these things are an awesome product. Mate of mine has one on his evo coupe and its perfect for the quiet times and the obnoxious ones. Its tuned for open as i understand it and when closed makes very little difference to the cars running other than sound. Its a mild increase in back pressure so it's most likely that only effect is a slightly lower response on boost cut in (Ie a poofteenth of a second of lag)

But dont be fooled the mufflers are very quickly going to become illegal if they arent already. Anything that enables you to change exhaust note is bound to be illegal as you can go from adr compliant to not in the push of a button.

  • 2 weeks later...

they shudnt make these illegal, cause some ppl do use their cars on both track and roads so its fair enuf, obviously proper track cars cant b registered for road use so i mean the ones ppl use for both

personally during the day on hwys and fwys u shud b able to use them and it shud b illegal to hav it loud at night in suburban sts...at least we are high compliant compared to sum ppl who just chop their exhausts... :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...