Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A small write up on Benching...

So a few guys have asked if I can post up a few pointers on the bench.

Im no bench specialist, but hopefully the following can help you out a little.

Setup

First things first, we need to set our grip width. 81cm is the maximum legal grip that can be used in competition, so given my levers, that is where I bench. Now, a wide grip isn't for everybody, it puts a lot more stress on the shoulder joint than a more a more moderate grip, so experiment with caution.

At a minimum, you want your arms perpendicular to the floor when the bar is on your chest, like this: |__O__|,

Not angled inwards /_o_\

A wider grip would look more like this \_o_/

Obviously, in PL, a wider grip is utilised more often than not as you will shift the load into larger musculature and shorten the range of motion.

Now that your grip is set, you next need to set your shoulders.

The most common cue we use to set them back is to "squeeze the shoulder blades together". Its amazing how many people get something so simple wrong. I don't think I've had a novice do it right the first time yet.

You need to squeeze the shoulder blades together, without letting them rise. If done correctly, you will also notice that is brings your chest up too.

Still have NFI what I'm talking about?

Stand up, put your arms straight out in front. Now pull your humerus straight back and slightly downwards trying to pushing as far back into the shoulder joint as possible.

You will now notice that your shoulder blades have come closer together, and your shoulders have not risen in the process.

Next you need to create tightness. EVERYWHERE.

After you have set your grip, you must set your shoulders.Try to set yourself up on your traps, making a tighter arch and allowing you room to set you scap back tightly and tense your lats, then lower your shoulders down onto the bench to pin them in place.

Place your feet as far back towards your head as your flexibility allows. Then make sure you have constant tension through your legs to the floor. If your a competitive powerlifter, you need to make sure you conform to the federation rules regarding feet positioning. IPF (PA) make you have your heels planted on the floor, where as GPC (GPC Australia) and WPC (CAPO) allow the lifter to be on the balls of the foot with heels raised, which is how I bench.

You have now created tightness across the entire bench, and stability to the floor. Tensing your glutes, and keeping them turned on, will complete the circuit, and provide you with the best base for a solid bench.

The movement

Take a big gulp of air, tense and expand your gut which will help increase your torso tension. Do not release this air until you've finished your rep or even a few reps. I can get out a set of 8 on a single breath.

Now start to lower the bar to your chest.

Do not let your elbows flare out, but don't tuck them in by your side..... You don't want "gay territorial arms" as Mark Bell would put it.

Try and keep the elbows at 45* angle between your torso and the bar.

The bar should touch at a point on your chest where your elbows are slightly in front of the wrist joint. If you touch to low, your wrists will be well in front of your elbows which wont allow an efficient press, and if you touch to high, your elbows will be under the bar, or your wrist will be way to far behind your elbow, again, not allowing for an efficient press.

The bar may attempt to follow your line of sight so stare at the point above the bar's starting position (the shoulder joint), and not directly up.

Once the bar touches the chest, press it back in a straight (not vertical, don't confuse the two) line to lockout, above the shoulders not the face.

Both of these lines are straight, but your pressing path should look much more like the first \ |

If your path looks like the second:

Your not touching in the right spot.

Your not locking out over the shoulders.

You have very different levers to most.

Bar positioning in the hand

Un-rack the bar. Open your hand, and point your fingers and thumbs to the roof. The bar should sit in the hook of your thumb/palm. Close your hand, keep your wrists tight, and don't let them stray from this position. Your wrist will be much more straight, and straight lines = strong lines.

You need to SQUEEZE that bar tight. You should have white knuckles. If your knuckles aren't white, squeeze tighter.

Leg drive

Do not even worry about this until everything else is second nature. Once your jumping on the bench and your grip, feet, shoulders, hips, glutes, wrists, touches and presses just happen without needing to think about anything, then you can think about this thing called leg drive.

Basically, leg drive is just another tool in getting more power to the bar. As the bar touches the chest, push your feet into the floor and try and move your entire body backwards, keep the drive through until you have locked the bar out. Timing is the biggest issue and it takes a fair bit of practice to get it all happening, but once you will get it, you will know.

The reason that I emphasis on tightness soooo much is that if your not 100% rigid, leg drive has little to no effect.

If your perform and time the drive correctly, you will find the bar just pops up a couple of inches (weight depending of course).

I find correct leg drive adds at least 5-10kg to my max bench.

Assistance work on bench.

For somebody that weights over 70kg and cant bench 100kg, benching more often - more sets, more reps, more days is going to help you the most. If you must, dips may be beneficial.

For the rest of you, there are 2 real things you need to be conscious of when choosing your assistance work.

1. Weaknesses

2. Injury prevention

If your weak off the chest things like the following can help out:

Paused benching - Focusing up exploding off the chest.

Dumbbell benching

Speed benching (triples)

If your weak midway/lockout things like these can help:

Dips

Slingshot

Boards

Pin press

I strongly believe a strong upper back will result on a much improved bench so make sure your getting stuck into some of the following EVERY session:

Dead hang WG pull ups, no f**king kipping. Pull your chest to the bar, not your shoulders.

Barbell rows

Pendaly rows (my preferred row)

Trap bar rows

DB/KB one arm rows

High pulls (if no impingement occurs)

Also some mobility work could be included in your warm up such as:

Shoulder dislocations

Foam/ball rolling

Stretching of the lats, pecs, tris ect....

Band pull apart, with a slow release.... I actually do these almost every time I go to the gym.

Supportive gear.

Supportive gear is used in the bench press, just the same as it is in the squat and deadlift. If your an equipped lifter, you probably have a coach, or have a good idea on what your doing anyway, so Im not going go into that..... Not that I know heaps about equipped lifting anyway.

Wrist wraps are recommended once you start to bench heavy. What's heavy you ask? I think 1.5x BW if you weigh 80kg or less, or 120kg if your over 80kg. There isn't a real need for them before now, as long as you have no exiting injuries. They can be sourced cheap from underground elite or titan, both local businesses. I would only go through these company's as they sell quality gear, not all wraps are equal.

Belts, unless you are an equipped lifter keeping your shirt in place are NOT needed. If you wear a belt in my gym benching 80kg raw, Ill throw an atlas stone at you (or at least drop it.... they are heavy)...... Don't be that guy.

Some of the lifters reading this most likely cant bench 100kg yet, and thats fine, my first 1 rep max was 60kg. We all start somewhere. I cant stress enough though that the assistance work is pretty much pointless for you at this stage, with the possible exception of dips. You need VOLUME, thats all. If you weigh 75kg, get to 80kg.

I hope you all took at least something away from this write up, and if you have any questions feel free to post in this thread. El Freako and myself both coach powerlifting teams, so we should be able to point people in the right direction.

Now get off the forum and start lifting

lol. and here I am losing :) but gaining..... (fat/muscle)

weighed today at 104.6kg. stoked. never thought Id get under 110kg.

heaviest Id been was around 4yrs ago at 135kg (too much booze to wash down the opiods)

last march was 115kg.

would like to keep at around 105kg; def think its doable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
×
×
  • Create New...