Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

im not sure if my car is running as well as it should b....

138XXX kms, simon did my oil filter/oil change, new belts, new plugs, coolant flush done not long ago. looks as of the timming belt and water pump was done not long ago but should get it redone so im "sure" its done.

needs new:

castor rod bushes, new hoses, new radiator (as begun to corrode), def needs a paint job, front bumber scratched a lil and not fitted properly, wheel alignment, new tires.

it idles quite rough and 1 of the belts slips when i start her up.

im up for spending money on my car but i dont want to spend the amount i paid for it on making it run 100%..

im after advice and opinions...

cheers peps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200880-when-to-cut-your-losses/
Share on other sites

As one of the older members of SAU, can I pass on some advice on life"

If its got tits or wheels its going to cost you a lot of money.

From what you have listed, if its going to cost moire than 2k to fix it may be cheaper to sell it and buy another one (but check it out this time so you dont end up in the same situation again)

As one of the older members of SAU, can I pass on some advice on life"

If its got tits or wheels its going to cost you a lot of money.

+1

With hindsite I wouldn't have bought my 1989 R32 GTRs and just sat on the cash in 2003 until now where I could've bought an 2002 R34 GTR V Spec II Nur or M Spec Nur for nearly the same money I've spent on my R32.

+1

With hindsite I wouldn't have bought my 1989 R32 GTRs and just sat on the cash in 2003 until now where I could've bought an 2002 R34 GTR V Spec II Nur or M Spec Nur for nearly the same money I've spent on my R32.

WOW....you've spent some $$$$ by the looks of things.

Last time I checked prices of good low km 2002 NUR (very rare) they were still pulling about 100k or more.

WOW....you've spent some $$ by the looks of things.

Last time I checked prices of good low km 2002 NUR (very rare) they were still pulling about 100k or more.

so u think id b better off selling up and buying a R32 gtr?

how much do 32 gtrs go for these days? around 15-18k?

+1

With hindsite I wouldn't have bought my 1989 R32 GTRs and just sat on the cash in 2003 until now where I could've bought an 2002 R34 GTR V Spec II Nur or M Spec Nur for nearly the same money I've spent on my R32.

that's coz u had 2 32 GTR's

(come on MSN more)

WOW....you've spent some $$$$ by the looks of things.

Last time I checked prices of good low km 2002 NUR (very rare) they were still pulling about 100k or more.

I have spent alot but not $100k... yet!

And 2002 R34 GTR V Spec II Nurs can be bought in Japan right now from 4,980,000 - 7,180,000 Yen (AUD$51,710 - 74,554) + shipping, customs, import tax, compliance etc. I have spent in between those amounts and still going... :);):(

Edit: Original link didn't work. I grabbed these prices from Goo-net

http://www.goo-net.com/english/

Edited by writeoff
so u think id b better off selling up and buying a R32 gtr?

how much do 32 gtrs go for these days? around 15-18k?

If $ are a consideration then I would recommend staying away from GTRs, especially 15-18K GTRs. GTRs eat money... like Pac Man. Really! Ask anyone whose has owned one for 12 months or longer.

that's coz u had 2 32 GTR's

(come on MSN more)

If I added up both GTRs then I would be close to the $100k mark. I was referring to the grey garage ornament I have with a GTR badge. The white one has had a new owner for some time now.

I have spent alot but not $100k... yet!

And 2002 R34 GTR V Spec II Nurs can be bought in Japan right now from 4,980,000 - 7,180,000 Yen (AUD$51,710 - 74,554) + shipping, customs, import tax, compliance etc. I have spent in between those amounts and still going... :);):(

Edit: Original link didn't work. I grabbed these prices from Goo-net

http://www.goo-net.com/english/

That would be about right for a Grade 4.5 or 5.0 with an A interior.....and dont forget GST with import tax being calculated on top of the GST inclusive price (or maybe the other way around).

Customs isn't much but compliance is about $4000 + tyres, freight about $1000 but for a car like that you would not go 'roll on roll off', you'd pay extra for a container.......all adds up pretty quick.

You probably wouldn't want one anyway because if the cost of the car didn't kill ya the insurance would.

so u think id b better off selling up and buying a R32 gtr?

how much do 32 gtrs go for these days? around 15-18k?

Had a look at a couple of Jap Auctions and found a couple 1993 BNR-32's Grade 4.0 with B interiors and between 50 to 70 kms for around 7 to 8 million Yen.

You would comfortably land a good one for between 15 -18k based on those figures.......then again there should be a few good ones already in the country, just depends how urgent you need a good one.

That would be about right for a Grade 4.5 or 5.0 with an A interior.....and dont forget GST with import tax being calculated on top of the GST inclusive price (or maybe the other way around).

Customs isn't much but compliance is about $4000 + tyres, freight about $1000 but for a car like that you would not go 'roll on roll off', you'd pay extra for a container.......all adds up pretty quick.

You probably wouldn't want one anyway because if the cost of the car didn't kill ya the insurance would.

Trust me I know the prices of bringing them over and getting them through Regency and then getting all the goodies refitted. It was alot more than the cost calculators at J Spec or Prestige predicted.

Insurance isn't so bad through Shannons with >30yo, rating 1, multiple policies, and limited km.

Had a look at a couple of Jap Auctions and found a couple 1993 BNR-32's Grade 4.0 with B interiors and between 50 to 70 kms for around 7 to 8 million Yen.

You would comfortably land a good one for between 15 -18k based on those figures.......then again there should be a few good ones already in the country, just depends how urgent you need a good one.

What sites are you using as I like to keep an eye on the market and look to see if a M Spec Nur or 400R come up for sale?

castor rod bushes -always need replacing on all r32's, often

new hoses, new radiator (as begun to corrode) - age related, once per 10 yrs

def needs a paint job - cosmetic, not required

front bumber scratched a lil and not fitted properly - cosmetic, can be done same time the paint job is done

wheel alignment, new tires - a result of having poor castor rod bushes ;)

it idles quite rough and 1 of the belts slips when i start her up.

im up for spending money on my car but i dont want to spend the amount i paid for it on making it run 100%..

im after advice and opinions...

cheers peps.

regardless of the amount u spend, it'll be the exact same cost and the exact same sort of stuff that goes wrong... perhaps its more well spent on a gtr than a gts but apples and oranges...ive spent $6k on my gtr in the last 8 months and it was in a good condition when I got it. Truth is the 32's are getting long in the tooth and they need some TLC from time to time to keep em purring

-D

Sorry to whore this thread but I should mention that even though I have a 34, I really like the 32 GTR's and always have........so I'm abit biased.

They look very tuff and after all they are the original Godzilla that destroyed the Group A class about 15 years ago.

I'll try and shut up now.......sorry. ;)

I see the average R32 GTR price for something somewhat descent from $18k and over... anything less is generally a ticking time bomb if not a dud already.

If it's on the original turbos & hasn't had an engine rebuild then the turbos and internals will be 14-18 yo. Most will have had the boost turned up and are therefore running well beyond the original design of the car. I'd want one that had newish steel wheeled turbos and a proper engine rebuild preferably done in Australia by a well known workshop with a good rep that knows what they are doing. It's unlikely you would find these cars for less than $22k but I don't really check R32 GTR prices that often now so I could be wrong.

What sites are you using as I like to keep an eye on the market and look to see if a M Spec Nur or 400R come up for sale?

Here's just a few sites I used to look for mine but some of them require log in membership unfortuantely.......idirect.co.jp is one of my favourites.

http://www.japaneseusedcars.com/auction/auctions.htm

http://www.carontrack.com/nissan/index.shtml

http://www.monkys.jp/e/nissan_used_cars.htm

http://australia.autoterminal.com/online_auction.asp

http://www.idirect.co.jp/default.aspx

I see the average R32 GTR price for something somewhat descent from $18k and over... anything less is generally a ticking time bomb if not a dud already.

If you're talking locally, you're probably right.

If you're confident enough to get an agent to bid on one for you in Japan but bring it in yourself, you'll definitely get it alot cheaper.

Here's just a few sites I used to look for mine but some of them require log in membership unfortuantely.......idirect.co.jp is one of my favourites.

http://www.japaneseusedcars.com/auction/auctions.htm

http://www.carontrack.com/nissan/index.shtml

http://www.monkys.jp/e/nissan_used_cars.htm

http://australia.autoterminal.com/online_auction.asp

http://www.idirect.co.jp/default.aspx

Thanks. I only had 2 of these sites. I also use www.tradecarview.com

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...