Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys again,

im running 11 psi boost (High) with only cat back exhaust and pod filter with NO FMIC...

Whenever i switch it to high boost (11psi) and go full throttle i can usually smell something like burning coming from under the bonnet area (can usually smell it as the window is open)...Just wondering if this means im destroying the turbo whenever i smell this or its just normal for such heat without FMIC (as i understand SMIC on GTT R34 is alright for under 200kwrw, as im running 178kwrw)...

You guys are a great help by the way, so i'd like to take your advice on this as well.

Thanks again

Does anyone else have this smell when gunning the rocket GTT R34 ? :thumbsup: with higher than stock boost?

Im not destroying the turbo am i? its just wearing like a turbo usually wears with full throttle right?

Edited by R33Turbo

i had this prob with my rb20 years ago, it was the gasket on the cam cover on the exhaust side, and on WOT applications the oil would leak past the seal and onto the hot manifold.

5 bucks for another gasket and all was good.

not saying thats what your prob is, but it could be something to look at, what kind of smell is it?

its kinda like oil heat smell yer...i was guessing it might be but it did the same on my R33 too...wats the coincidence of 2 of the cars leaking oil, but it seems to only do it on higher boost so i was thinking maybe its just the smell of the heat on higher boost?

just higher engine rpm is forcing the oil out past the cracked seals on the cam covers... quick wa yo see is if you jhave a look at the exhaust cam cover, and down the side, is it covered in crud and oil oil? if it is you've got a leak.

just higher engine rpm is forcing the oil out past the cracked seals on the cam covers... quick wa yo see is if you jhave a look at the exhaust cam cover, and down the side, is it covered in crud and oil oil? if it is you've got a leak.

Well the head gasket used to leak with oil cuz it wasn't tighten down properly but now that it has been tighten down....

Its not much of a problem is it if its leaking? i may as well live with it?

Well the head gasket used to leak with oil cuz it wasn't tighten down properly but now that it has been tighten down....

Its not much of a problem is it if its leaking? i may as well live with it?

no mate the cam cover ontop of the engine..... not the head gasket besides if u think head gasket is below the manifold so it wouldnt run onto it would it

First I would give that engine a real good degrease as you will never find oil leaks with old oil stains.But be very careful spraying water in the coilpack region and also try not to spray degreaser onto the pulleys themselves.I had one seize on me from overzealous degreasing.Once you got that motor and suspect areas spotless then you can start to study the real nature of the problem

i had this prob with my rb20 years ago, it was the gasket on the cam cover on the exhaust side, and on WOT applications the oil would leak past the seal and onto the hot manifold.

Thats got my vote aswell. I get the same thing when driving hard, and also extended drives down the motorway. changing it when i do my 100K service. Hiping thats the prob.

i've got the same smell, and i know my passenger side cam cover gasket is weaping. makes sense that it would get worse at WOT.

but i never had the smell until i did my 3 inch dump, and raised the boost to 12psi from 10psi. maybe the leak is just getting worse, or maybe the higher boost makes it leak more?

one way to find out i guess. how much are these gaskets? where's the easiest place to get one?

I have issues of blow by (MAJORLY BAD blow by) at the moment, and it causes this smell dramatically.

If it's an oil issue, track it down, fix it.

Everytime you smell it, you're burning oil from some where.

It might just be that a gasket has gone, or, with an increase in exhaust flow and higher boost, you have more blow by, and a catch can could fix it.

ive had same causes with my car but i always thought nothing much of it, and sorry to ask a newb question but where do i check? wheres the cam cover? wheres the manifold?

Lol@ 10minuteCar :P

R33Turbo - Instead of the smell being derived directly from boost, i would say its just from the increased heat when on 11psi and WOT.

As mentioned, after market systems can cause non factory heating of area's. (In your case its oil, could be plastic, rubber smell etc)

Clean it up, and look for leaks, you might need to have a think about some under bonnet heat management :(

lol

cam covers cover the cams... who woulda thought :P they are the two covers on top of the motor, the drivers side on has the oil filler hole in it, it is usually the exhaust side (passenger) that leaks onto the exhaust manifold, the exhaust manifold bolts to the head.

if you want pics, do some googling.

exhaust manifold is the passenger side where some sorta rectangular shape bolts onto something (head) right?

and are the cam covers underneath the neo cover for my r34?

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...