Blitz Lm Almost Fitted

[moobaque]

Hey all,

I've just done a bit of a trial fit of the bar today. Currently i still haven't modded a reo so its not on the car in this test fit. My bar is being held on by the 2 original screws either side of the bar and cable ties in the middle to where the grill normally goes. So far it lining up pretty damn well but i do still need to trim some more plastic away from the fake driving lights as they are pushing into the very edges of the cooler.

Also see the gaping holes ive created from removing the middle section of my bar. Im planning on getting those plastic welded up to look schmik. Al on this forum has done just that and it looks a million dollars!

What is also very awesome is that the cross pipe sits higher than the bottom of the front bar! Ive seen on many photos of series 2 installs u can quite clearly see the pipe hanging under the bar. but it sits beautifully tucked away. hopefully the front bar will cop most the impact if u do hit a gutter/driveway etc.

also note my awesome temporary number plate rigging. not sure at the end of the day where/how im going to mount it. But i really wanted to give the car a kick around the block. (will also go and purchase a slimline plate so its no so chunky)

if i get time before work ill start putting up some other photos of how i got to this point

Cheers

Camden

[FighterJoe]

Having an aftermarket front bar would make all the deference on an s1.. otherwise behind the bar they are almost identical between s1 and s2 (with the exception of reo design). I don't think there are many bars out there that compliment the s1 very well unless u change the whole kit so i'm quite keen to mod my original. I could be wrong but i also recon its heaps easier trimming a plastic bumper than a fibreglass one.

I haven't had to modify anything else in the car to make the cooler fit (not sure why some people say they had to relocate there horns too?!?) but i have chosen to cut a section of my reo so that i have a bigger opening for the cooler. but i don't have to do that to make it fit. I'm not familiar with the Tommy Kaira front bar, but like almost every aftermarket front bar im sure it has a relatively large cooler opening already meaning the reo would have already been modded to suit it properly.

Im kind of curious about this bar tho? could you post up a pic of your car?

Cheers

Camden

Obviously not my car but looks exactly the same except the side stickers and wheels.

The reo bar was already trimmed to fit the TK front bumper on, when I fitted my Blitz LM I had to trim the reo bar a little further to clear the IC end tanks. the front bar took quite of trimming around the IC, I removed the numberplate mount and fixed it on the drivers side of the bar. The indicators (well the other half you can't see) needed triming on the insides to clear the IC tanks, I then got the trimmed light plastic welded back up.

I wanted to keep some of the middle bar (lol too many bars) going arcoss the IC, but it is trimmed down quite a lot. I also made some extra room for a coarse black aluminium grill as I personally like it to be a little discrete as well as protect it from larger stones. The lower return pipe does not pretrude below the bottom of the bumper.

BTW I didn't need to relocate horns either, from memory I did remove them but then refitted them and bent the horn bracket alittle for more clearance.

Edited January 11, 2008 by FighterJoe

[moobaque]

BTW I didn't need to relocate horns either, from memory I did remove them but then refitted them and bent the horn bracket alittle for more clearance.

hahah yeah i bent my horns back too but it fitted in fine before i did that.

i've been having grief finding someone who will plastic weld up my side sections. A few smash repair places are of the opinion japanese vehicles have inferior plastic and it cant be done!?! i know its no BWM M3 but....get your hand of it

other companies i have called have never really done what i am asking and really cant give me any indication of how much it will cost. I may be missing what exactly it takes to plastic weld but i just cant see it being that hard... except u do require to have the correct element for the specific plastic i do understand that... how much did urs cost? understandably mine may cost a little more as its a place that will be seen but any idea of a ball park figure?

[FighterJoe]

i've been having grief finding someone who will plastic weld up my side sections. A few smash repair places are of the opinion japanese vehicles have inferior plastic and it cant be done!?! i know its no BWM M3 but....get your hand of it

other companies i have called have never really done what i am asking and really cant give me any indication of how much it will cost. I may be missing what exactly it takes to plastic weld but i just cant see it being that hard... except u do require to have the correct element for the specific plastic i do understand that... how much did urs cost? understandably mine may cost a little more as its a place that will be seen but any idea of a ball park figure?

Odd shouldn't be hard to do and the plastic quality is fine, I took mine to a plastic fabricator (actually called plastic fabricator) here in a industial area of Adelaide, they had no problem doing it no questions, but I didn't specify anything to him, he just knew It wouldn't be seen and he did it in white plastic. .... I only trimed the back/side edge of it which is black plastic and he plastic welded a white section in, I just wanted it to seal the unit, if It was a visible section I wouldn't have accepted it white. It cost $20 each from memory (so $40).

Edited January 11, 2008 by FighterJoe

[moobaque]

Odd shouldn't be hard to do and the plastic quality is fine, I took mine to a plastic fabricator (actually called plastic fabricator) here in a industial area of Adelaide, they had no problem doing it no questions, but I didn't specify anything to him, he just knew It wouldn't be seen and he did it in white plastic. .... I only trimed the back/side edge of it which is black plastic and he plastic welded a white section in, I just wanted it to seal the unit, if It was a visible section I wouldn't have accepted it white. It cost $20 each from memory (so $40).

I've got all the plastic left over from the centre section i cut out that they can use to fill up the holes ive created. Going to have the whole bar resprayed anyway coz as u can see in the pics its pretty knocked around in general (bought the car like that) I think the previous owner had hit a few to many gutters.

[geraus]

Good work man, congratulations looks shmick! im in the process of getting one! i might pm you for some help if thats ok with you oh and where did you get yours from? i was gona go through nengun but i got told theres going to be delays... if you know id appreciate your help thanks.

Geraus

[moobaque]

Good work man, congratulations looks shmick! im in the process of getting one! i might pm you for some help if thats ok with you oh and where did you get yours from? i was gona go through nengun but i got told theres going to be delays... if you know id appreciate your help thanks.

Geraus

I think i put my two cents in about nengun further back in the thread and i have no problem with em at all. Thats who i purchased mine through. You just cant beat there prices to be honest (even when the exchange rate goes to shit its still cheaper than buying off a local dealer). You will have to generally wait 2-4 weeks for something to arrive. But i'm ok with that since i paid over $600 less than getting it off an authorized aussie dealer like autobarn.

But yeah feel free to PM me about it.

[moobaque]

Hey all,

Haven't really done anymore on the car due to having to go to work (lame) but i did just give it a bit of a spin late last night as i was passing the workshop on my way home.

firstly i must say its amazing the difference it made with the nice coolish air we had last night. I would also put aside anyone who says the turn pipe design is bad for air flow coz my boost is coming way harder and faster than with ye old stocker.

The only problem i have run into atm is that my idle has gone to shit. The car initially starts up fine and seems to idle relatively smoothly. but if your coming off revs (eg have just chucked the car out of gear to come to a stop) the revs will just drop completely and stall)

Now this could be one of two things.

1. My AAC valve is completely jammed up with crap (this was happening every so often before i did the upgrade)

2. Or because im using an aftermarked ECU (power fc) the idle programming just may need to be tweaked.

To solve this problem im going to both clean my aac valve when i get the chance as well as send it back RE customs way to have a little dyno run and tune once over.

I guess there could also be a 3rd issue that may come into play and that's a leak in the system somewhere but i'm confident all the piping is air tight!

Shall post up some more updates when i get some free time again!

[moobaque]

Alrighty then. Here are some picks of the process. I still haven't actually done anymore work on the car since i only picked up the new reo bar the other day (and work keeps getting in the way) but here is a few pics though the actually intercooler mounting process.

How my car looked at the beginning

The Car with Bumper, Grill and Reo removed

Position for the central ic mouting bracket (for a 33 you use the longer bracket, only 34s use the short one)

e)

Passengers Side Bracket

Drivers Side Bracket

With The pipes attached

Using up those stock holes!

Center of my bumper cutout using a nice sharp industrial stanley knife

Passengers side cutting to allow piping to fit against front bar (note: front bar is laying upside down)

Drivers side cutting to allow end tank to fit against front bar (note: front bar is laying upside down)

I haven't taken a photo of this as of yet but you also have to shave sections of the back of the fake driving lights (or they could be real in a few optioned S1 R33s) to fit around the end tanks.

Will post up some pics soon of Reo bar mod situation. (when ever i get to do it)

Cheers

Camden

[Howie]

Top top work with the pics. Nice and clear.. thanks for taking the effort to post them mate.

[mjones]

i have one of these kits in my shed,needs new core though,all piping there contact me if interested

[W0rp3D]

im installing one of these atm (rain stopped me from finishing it today) was just wondering if the pipes that go up through the guards just go up through the hole or do they use the piece of standard piping that bolts to the holes?

atm i have an ic kit that goes accross the radiator which i am removing and replacing with the blitz kit, i have also purchased the full factory piping kit but am unsure as to how much of the factory kit i have to use and not 100% sure what goes where any way as it all just came in a box, also how far forward does your cooler sit, where i have mine at the moment it looks like about the same height as yours but mine sits only a little bit back from the bar reo, problem is that i have fog lights in my indicators and i think the extra bit for those is going to hit the cooler.

any help would be appreciated.

[W0rp3D]

Finished the install today, other than changing the whole mounting set up, which would throw the pipes out of alignment i can not see any way to fit one of these to an R33 gtst with factory fog lights, i had to remove mine and go back to just the normal indicators and trim a lot of unnecessary excess plastic from the back as well which still only left me with about 5-10mm of clearance.

Also on mine who ever cut the front bar up was an absolute butcher, i have the same bumper as pictured in this thread but the bottom inside section that hides the bottom pipe from view has been cut back to about 2 or 3inches from the front which means that the bottom pipe is in full view, add to that the fact that the last owner of this set up had painted the cooler black, i have a black car and the pipe is still silver = stands out like dogs balls.

Other than that im happy with the way it fitted and now i have a standard looking engine bay and can finally fit the snorkel for the air box, now i just have to fill the hole in the inner gaurd from the old kit.

[W0rp3D]

Also forgot to ask, what sort of power are you guys getting with this setup, bit worried about the 2.25" factory piping used in the engine bay.

[W0rp3D]

Here is pic just after i washed the car.

[W0rp3D]

Another note for owners of these, if you ever need to get replacement hose for the inlet or outlet of the intercooler it is not 2.5" as i think most would assume, its actually 2.75".

Tring to find some now.