Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have put a deposit on an engine in Melbourne (I live in Brisbane) and am in the process of organizing freight and final payment.

1. What would the shipping weight of and RB30DET be? Full motor including big turbo and clutch. I have been told 180-350kg need more specific

2. Is there any way to make a secure payment to someone in another state. I was looking at flying down to pay in person but its looking too expensive as there is no cheap flights at the moment. Not saying the seller is dodgy but it is a large sum of money and would like to have some sort of assurance.

3. Any recommendations on shipping companies for this type of move?

Cheers,

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201066-shipping-an-engine-interstate/
Share on other sites

well last time i check the weight of an RB30 is around the 200-250 mark (sorry bout not being exact but unless i put it on a scale its not going to get an exact weight) so with everything on it, id say 250 ish + or - about 30kg...cant help you with the rest as i have never done any of it.

I have an engine currently coming from Rockhampton, at the moment it's around Brisbane, be in Sydney on Monday.

I told them 400KG as it's coming with a gearbox.

Put it on a pallete of 1200*1200 with a given height of 1000 if they ask for one.

Can't help you with shipping companies, as I had ALOT of trouble finding one, and it was only for my Dad who rang a friend from QLD that we managed to secure a good deal and great service on moving my motor.

Hi mate,

I am in the transport industry and like MBS206 said the cheapest way is on a pallet. 1200 x 1200 is the standard size of the blue chep pallets you see around.

Finding a company that will ship a pallet to brisbane from vic is easy ( rockhampton another story).

The main issue you will have is with how flexible the seller is. One pallet from vic to qld is around $80-$150......but that is depot to depot. Meaning the seller would have to take the engine to a transport depot and also need to have a pallet and also strap it down to said pallet securely.

Another option is a furniture removalist. Depending on where in vic and where in qld would cost between $200-$350 and is a door to door service. But the catch is hardly any of the interstaters have hydraulic tailgates ( makes truck heavier reducing load capability ) so the engine would need to be rolling somehow to push up there ramp.

If you get stuck send me a pm and I will see what I can do for you. We just had a new truck engine crated to us and I think the crate is lying around somewhere if the seller wnats to pick it up.

  • 4 weeks later...

Just thought I would post up how I went,

I got the motor shipped up through Mainfreight cost me $220 they had awesome customer service

The motor was dropped off to the depot on monday night and delivered to me on Thursday morning. They had a great online tracking system which showed you where the freight was at all times.

Happy Customer!

Cheers,

Dan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...