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Hi

I just started my RB26 for the first time after a rebuild, so i had to prime the pump and turbo core etc with engine oil.

I was just wondering if those with oil coolers actually dump the oil within the cooler and then prime the cooler with new oil when they change their engine oil.

The reason im asking is that i just installed an Earls 19 row (wide) oil cooler, and the fittings are facing downwards. So in order to prime the cooler (probably about 1.5 litres with lines), its a massive pain in the arse, and requires removal of the braided lines etc etc.

I must have spent over 20 grand on the engine, so if i have to do it every 5000kms to avoid engine wear then so be it, but i was just wondering if i remove the old oil from the cooler, then prime the oil filter (and obviously engine) with new stuff, will the lack of oil in the cooler for a few seconds be damaging to the engine?

Its hard to explain, but hopefully you guys in the know will get what im talking about.

For those that are interested, the engine started no worries, and got oil pressure straight away. It started off the key with the Autronic SM4 and sounds great. This thing has been in build for about 4 years (after some bad luck and engine failures), so i was pretty nervous about something going wrong.

Anyway, ill include some pics of the cooler and the remote oil filter so you know what i mean. Sorry about the big files though.

Shaun.

post-11456-1200016425_thumb.jpg

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I have a very similar setup only the oil filter is down low.... tried to prime the cooler but could only get a bit under 500ml in there with everything connected (feeding using funnel into dash10 braid not fun). I'm thinking crank it for a few seconds (no fuel) till I get oil pressure then start it normally. Im fairly sure the oil filter being so low self primes on mine though, well it filled with oil when I filled the sump anyway. Yet to start it though, waiting on ecu (also an sm4).

btw your engine looks very similar to mine :P

post-1925-1200024421_thumb.jpg

Edited by DCIEVE

Yeah, i disconnected the injectors and cranked it for aaaages, but i discovered you cant get oil pressure off the starter motor.

I was thinking of getting a mechanical pump (like a holley blue or something) with dash 10 fittings and connecting it to a battery so i can pump oil straight from the bottle into the cooler. Might be a bit of an overkill though.

I love the SM4. Where/how are you mounting yours?

Im just in the process of mounting mine in the factory position, but im finding it really hard to make it look stock! The worst thing i ever did was take my car out of rego! Now ive gotta try to convince the engineer that the computer is standard so that i dont have to get emissions tested.

Shaun.

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interesting point.

I never primed the cooler on my 180 and if you hadnt started it for ages then sometimes you would get a little rattle from the timing chain when it lost oil for that fraction as the cooler/lines etc filled up. And like you said there is that small volume of oil still in there you cannot get out when you change the oil.

If you crank the motor you wont get oil pressure no, but it will pump some around, there a postive displacement so the oil has to go some where.

Im interested to know what anyone recomends on this as i want to put an oil cooler on my stagea and i dont wana kill a expensive motor either.

interesting point.

I never primed the cooler on my 180 and if you hadnt started it for ages then sometimes you would get a little rattle from the timing chain when it lost oil for that fraction as the cooler/lines etc filled up. And like you said there is that small volume of oil still in there you cannot get out when you change the oil.

If you crank the motor you wont get oil pressure no, but it will pump some around, there a postive displacement so the oil has to go some where.

Im interested to know what anyone recomends on this as i want to put an oil cooler on my stagea and i dont wana kill a expensive motor either.

its hard to think how u would get every little bit of dirty oil out of the cooler isnt it cuz it would be silly to have like a litre of shitty oil in the cooler that goes into the sump and mixes with fresh new oil hmmmm how could we get around this

you disconnect the bottom fitting on the cooler and drain it separately :) not exactly rocket science.

I have been advised by certain knowledgeable people that oil coolers should be mounted on their side with the inlet at the bottom and the outlet on the top to avoid an air pocket within the core. Makes sense if you think about it simply, but in practice will the core fill if mounted like shaun's? Mines mounted the same way btw, except compared to shauns extruded brackets mine may as well be held in with fencing wire and duct tape :rolleyes:

the easier way, yet more expensive way, is to drain the oil, then fill it up with new oil, then run it up to temp... then drain this again. you could also use engine flush with the new oil that you have put in before the draining.

then once its all drained, put your good oil in it and away you go. that way all the old oil sitting in the cooler is going to be flushed out from the previous drain.

hell of a lot less messier :rolleyes:

you disconnect the bottom fitting on the cooler and drain it separately :) not exactly rocket science.

I have been advised by certain knowledgeable people that oil coolers should be mounted on their side with the inlet at the bottom and the outlet on the top to avoid an air pocket within the core. Makes sense if you think about it simply, but in practice will the core fill if mounted like shaun's? Mines mounted the same way btw, except compared to shauns extruded brackets mine may as well be held in with fencing wire and duct tape :rolleyes:

Yeah, getting the old oil out of the cooler is easy, as mentioned above. There would still be some left in the lines, but i dont think it would be significant when filled up with 7 litres of new stuff.

The issue is getting new stuff to the cooler. Now you mention it, the way mine is mounted, it wouldnt just go in the bottom of the cooler and straight out the other side without permiating through the whole core would it? Hope not. Surely there would be enough pressure there to create a 'backlog' of oil in the cooler that would permiate through the rest of it, and they told me that it didnt matter which way it was mounted.

When i felt the cooler, it was all pretty hot.

Oh, im pretty obsessive conpulsive with mounting things and oil issues.

Shaun.

Edited by Shaun

some taxi's do - but i was getting at the lack of cold start conditions as their key to long engine life

from what my mate told me (he did a fair bit of research), a lot of truck/logistic companies use them as standard on their trucks

on his 300zx, when he turns on to accessories he sees oil pressure. that's before he turns to start the engine. it doesn't get much better than that.

if i were to do any kind of rebuild i would definately consider this, especially if my engine is worth more than my car (as in your case)

Edited by WazR32GTSt
I thought i had an obsessive compulsive issue, the 10's of hours iv spent stressing over oil and fuel lines. Setup, maintenance, long term effects etc :P

Good to see im not the only one LoL

Yeah, im definately OCD. I mop my garage floor more than those in my house.

Shaun.

Rofl, i cut specifically shaped pieces of foam and fit them, every time i remove i.manifold, e.manifold, power steering lines etc etc. I comb my carpet and wax the bottom of my feet!

...

..

ok, i made those last two up for affect.

But seriousally, with all the dough you pour into a car, to think a fuel / oil issue could kill your motor dead quick, pains me, hence the thought out modifications :P

Yeah, i think ill just prime the oil filter and then unplug the injectors and crank it over for a while. I wont see oil pressure bit at least it wil circulated oil around a bit.

Shaun

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