Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a electronic boost controller (Greddy Profec B Spec 2), and the cars pretty much stock except a cat back exhaust. im having a top boost of 11psi but it drops to 8.7 nearby redline. what do you guys think the problem is?

I don't think i have any boost leak as i dynoed it to check and the unique auto sports guys says its normal for the stock turbo but they also said a cat back exhaust will help the boost drop less, but it didn't do that.

What do you guys think the problem is? i really want a full 11psi boost to redline.

by the way the car is GTT R34

Edited by 10MinuteCar
wait im so newbie that when you guys always say front pipe i don't get what it is. i know the dump pipe is the single pipe from turbo to the cat but wats a front pipe??

dump pipe is straight off the turbo, which leads into the front pipe which is just before the cat. aka dump/front pipe. u can get it in one peice.

do everyone drop 2 psi on higher than stock boost? even with a eletronic boost controller as well like myself?

I use to have a case where my rubber intake collapsed causing the boost to drop once the engine bay was warm, and with the silicon intake pipe I purchased, IT MADE IT WORSE ended up going back to the stock intake, and reinforcing it with stainless steel off cuts. Problem solved.

I think the reason why your boost is dropping is due to your restrictive exhaust system. Invest in a dump & front pipe and a high flow catalytic.

My 34 drops boost by around 4 pound on redline, i have the boost set to 14psi and by redline it drops to just below 10psi, get used to it mate if your going to keep the stock turbo

It is normal, altho mine is dropping from 14psi to about 11psi

get a free flowing full exhaust system as suggested before to help it breathe better

i would of thought that standard turbs would be able to hold 11psi but i guess not

is it possible to use a r32 actuator inconjunction with the EBC by any chance?

Yes but you would be wasting your time, I have a adjustable hks actuator and it still drops off boost

just a question ;) would a exhaust manifold leak cause the boost drop as mentioned before from about 11psi down to 9psi as well? or will it never even reach the 11psi in the first place?

Possible but it would need to be a big exhaust leak

just a question ;) would a exhaust manifold leak cause the boost drop as mentioned before from about 11psi down to 9psi as well? or will it never even reach the 11psi in the first place?

I just had my leaking manifold repaired.

Problem was low boost from low rpms. Once i put the boot in it was hard to notice because there was lots of pressure and i made the 11psi my boost controller was set to.

Manifold leak (depending how severe) shouldn't cause high rpm boost loss. Like all the fellas said, it's normal for your setup to lose 2-3psi.

I run a GReddy profec on my GTT also and have found that just playin with the gain setting in particular can help stop the boost dropping off in the higher revs. Im only running 10psi hi boost and still playin round with the settings but have managed to get it pretty good and hold the 10.

I also have a 3" system off the back of the turbo that prob helps a bit too tho.

Good luck!

I run a GReddy profec on my GTT also and have found that just playin with the gain setting in particular can help stop the boost dropping off in the higher revs. Im only running 10psi hi boost and still playin round with the settings but have managed to get it pretty good and hold the 10.

I also have a 3" system off the back of the turbo that prob helps a bit too tho.

Good luck!

oh great! since we're both using the same cool EBC :P could u gimme some advice on how to set the settings to hold 10psi boost please? from 1st step to last as ive never tried to touch the EBC myself but will do with the help of a pro :D

LOL i am hardly an expert!

Ive only had it on there for bout 2 or 3 weeks and been playing with it tryin to get it somewhere right.

just went and had a look at my settings and atm they are-

set: 40%

gain:27

set gain:6psi

its holding boost pretty well but needs more fine tuning. also been hard cause ive been trying to do it on my own...

My cars mods are just 3" turbo back and a K&N panel so pretty stock...

hope that was of some help to ya! :P

oh also just adding the peak boost with those settings was 10.3psi....not sure of the rpm(bit hard to drive and look at it lol)

Edited by jase-r34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
    • The ones in brackets are the first stages of tightening. I usually aim for the middle of the range. They give a range because it's actually not that critical to hit exactly the right bolt tension. Enough is enough, and too much is too much, and the range given is inside that range. Half of the bolts in the suspension are problematic for putting a torque wrench on anyway, so just get done up to mechanic tight  and spanner checked a week later.
×
×
  • Create New...