Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make:

1990 Nissan Pulsar GTi-R

Milage:

86,000kms At the Engine / 159,000kms on chassis

Transmission:

Manual / Needs a new gearbox (Got qouted $900 from Jerry autopuls dandenong)

Colour:

Black

Location:

Springvale South

Price:

$8000 Cash strictly no offers this is as low as i will go, so please don't waste my time thanks

Plates included DCEIVR

REGISTRATION EXPIRES 2008 OCTOBER 6th !! LONG REGO!!

Running Starndard turbo / Standard Boost

- Gktech FMIC w/ Custom piping Samco silicone hoses

- G4 coilovers

- Upgraded rear sway bar

- Cusco rear strut brace

- Bosch 984 fuel pump

- Turbosmart Fuel Regulator

- K&N air filter

- Cat back exhaust 3' - 4' Tip

- Oil breather

- Braided brake lines

- Slotted rotters front and rear

- Clear indicators

- Alarm system with 3 point immobiliser and black wiring

- Apexi EL 2 60mm boost gauge (black)

- HKS Eletronic Valve Controller EVC (Disconnected)

- Turbo Timer

- Pioneer MP3 Headunit

- Pioneer 6' Splits

- Pioneer 6x9s 420w custom mounted

- 14' 4x100 Standard Gtir wheels painted black

Maintenance

new engine 86,000kms 159,000kms on chassis

new battery

reconditioned startor motor

reconditioned alternater

All water new hoses

New water pump

New Fuel filter

Only serious buyers! GOING REAL CHEAP!

Reason for selling, Lost my licence for 12months, need to pay off debt.

Contact

John

0401 418 047

[email protected]

S.E Surburb

Melbourne

Pictures,

1-3.jpg

engine1.jpg

3-2.jpg

IMG_0790_.jpg

frontview.jpg

frangy.jpg

P1010091.jpg

sideshot.jpg

Edited by DCEIVR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201277-vic-baby-godzilla-8000-or-swaps/
Share on other sites

can only select 5th and Reverse.. so im guessing from 1st to 4th the syncros are gone ?

I didn't have a proper run.. was very hot on the day about 50degrees on the track 1st run i think i ran high 13s

the 2nd run the gearbox shat itself ..

the car pretty much has been sitting at home since november 2007 ..

--

other parts included

standard TMIC - manifold - silcone hose - brackets

rubber window trims

metal spark plug cover

aluminium radiator flow thing

Edited by DCEIVR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's a good point. The rears of the covers themselves have no baffling at all though. Higher up more chance of air for venting the crank case. Lower on the side more likely to be submerged. I might be able to fit them on the sides but with both the sump drain fittings being on the drivers side the passenger one will need to make a U Turn and be nearer the turbo. But it will look neat being not up on top.
    • It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.
    • Well, I have my IM240 results with a cammed LS1... My Nox was 0.11 and my CO g/km was 0.2. Euro4 is 0.08 and 0.1 respectively. I'm gonna say for a stock RB this is actually plausible, BUT in Australia they were complied pre-Euro2, so the limits were: Which as you can see, is way higher. I'd say a stock RB with a new OEM Cat could? actually pass Euro4 for NOX but you'd probably have to do a hell of a lot of testing to prove it, and getting a car emissions tested and carrying a certificate of emissions when/if you get pulled over may be cost prohibitive if it's even allowable to get your car tested and re-classified. You'd have to find out what the UK Govt is using as reference material. It may be non-negotiable.
    • I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
×
×
  • Create New...