Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I believe its on factory power and weights.. therefore you can change the power down, or bump the weight up but its not going to make a difference.

p platers can drive any car as long as it is a max of 125kw per tonne. it all comes down to power to weight. i can buy a gtst and decrease the power. as long as i have proof that the power is decresed then there is no problem.

if its purely on factory weights i could buy a little 60kw lancer and drop in a new engine a huge turbo and have a 460 kw little lancer.....see what im getting at

therefore as long as the car is a max of 125kw per tonne it is legal.... i went through all this when i bought my skyline, the legalities of what ive just been talking about hence i have a skyline :D also if i have an accident i will be covered! ;)

yes i own a gts-t

i dont want to go into the details too much but its rather simple.

less air = less power.

as long as you can prove that your car is under the power to weight ratio like i can and as long as you can back up your new power to weight figures with some kind of a power chart/ dyno tuners signatureand stamp with some simple mathematics everything is legal.

Originally posted by KamikazeR33

should be somewhere around that Xeaon

somewhere between 1300-2000

I dont think so, if that was the case i would be getting that but its not. It is what i assumed as well but found out they want around the 3000-3500 :|, which was quoted from just cars and they are the only ppl that said they would insurer me.

Originally posted by liquid85

I dont think so, if that was the case i would be getting that but its not. It is what i assumed as well but found out they want around the 3000-3500 :|, which was quoted from just cars and they are the only ppl that said they would insurer me.

Ouch thats just to harsh. So its no point getting a non-turbo there for.

Anyone on there P's who has a non-turbo skyline who would like to share how much there insurance is? Someone with Famous?

Originally posted by akeenan

if it doesnt work like that why have i done it? and why have i managed to get insurance with my slight killowatt detune :confused: where as without the detune they refused and wouldnt have anything to do with me :confused: !

Ok, so when the cops fine you, you just run the car to the RTA's handy weighbridge and engine dyno, after they remove, test and refit your engine and set the car up to factory weight you get off?:D

Bullshit mate.

I'm not talking about proving it to some dumbarse jobsworth at the insurance company call centre, I am talking about the legality of it. And with insurance, my thoughts would run to If the cops told the insurance company your car exceeded the regulations if you were in a decent accident, who do you reckon they'd believe?

For insurance I'll give you the benefit of the doubt, but no way would driving that car be legal under the power:weight rules.

Maybe you have a very very relaxed insurer.

Good luck in the event of a crash.

cheers,

floody

hrmmm...

car insurance is quite a problem.

I've had my car for about a month now... and still no insurance.

It's a non-turbo r34. i thought that non-turbo was easier n cheaper for insurance.. but obviously not.

Most places would insure under my dad, but once i tell them i may be driving(19yr old) 'if i was required to' they reject. and other places like famous are quite expensive.. i got quoted 3k. i thought it'd be alot cheaper... esp for a non-turbo car. Now, i might even consider selling the car and getting something simple for a few years.. lol

btw. does anyone know whether famous does 3rd party?

Floody, i live in Sydney but deal with modified cars from Melbourne. From what i've managed to grasp (this is relating to old-school V8 Aussie muscle cars) you carry your report which has power:weight on it (incl dyno sheet) like an engineer's report so when the cops pull you over, your engine no. VIN no. and plates all match up and they can't do anything about power:weight UNLESS you've modified the car in a defectable way. Just like having an engineer's report in Syd. or QLD

dyno sheets are all well and good, but any cop I've spoken to says the rules refer to (flywheel)power to weight. I understand you can extrapolate flywheel power from rear wheel power, however it is far from accurate- in fact I'd go so far as to say its too inaccurate for the police.

I don't think driving the car in a bad state of tune is going to cut the mustard, even if it is dynoed at that power level.

And for the thread starter, for anyone just old enough to get their license, unless you have extensive motorsport experience or something, a 185kw car is a BAD thing.

On the other hand, yeah get it, when you smash it I'll buy the front cut from your grieving parents :) .

cheers,

floody

Yes. There is a championship for it. More motor sport than burnouts or dyno shootouts. Yanks want to put it on ESPN as there is now a US-D1 championship slated for 2004. 8 rounds (so far) of action, mostly on the west coast, but with 2 Florida-based rounds looking to join in and a proposal from Hawaii to get involved.

really? maaad, so you reckon that would be a good motorsport to pick up, aside from club level track work? i mean, it's cheaper to run(isn't it?) and you get the best fun out of it, i mean, it's drifting!!!!! could be my next job, lol

Hmmm. Not really the same as club-level racing. You can do both but drifting is like burnout comps: you really need to set the car up specifically for it. Some of the Jap tuning houses and drivers i've talked to through work reckon it's murder on cars and a full rebuild is needed after 1 season of pro competition. You chew tyres and make friends with panel beaters and diff and gearbox specialists...

Remember: a drifter used to be another name for a bum/homeless person/vagrant...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...