Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont forget to take your keyboard when you go 'see' his 'mate'.

You've been warned. Personal threats will not be tolerated.

i wasnt threatening anyone... it was just a friendly f**k you dont call me a retard

What size cams and what headwork are you 'planning'?

That Tomei stroker kit is only the 8 counter kit and the 'cooling channel kit' is actually only an extra option regarding pistons. Everthing else is the same.

Do you actully need a stroker? Plenty of guys are running rb26's with TO4Z's and are making the required power.

technically no i dont need the stroker kit but with the extra displacement which would provide more torque with the longer stroke and so forth you know where im coming from....

u have for sale it says an 05u block with hks 2.8lt stroker bottom end was the o5u bit stand for

head work im not really sure i still gotta speak to sum ppl about where i should start and wat is need as such

ummm 270's with _____lift was my first choice but im not sure if i could go for a lil bit bigger in the vacinity of 280's theres biggish but yeh im just unsure at this point

plus call me a dick but ya cant beat the cammy skyline note gotta love it

Edited by skylinekid

oooww - feisty thread!

...ya cant beat the cammy skyline note gotta love it

Hell yes ;)

280's are massive on a small capacity import motor though. What ever you do decide, make sure you do your research. Strokers, cams and turbo clearly dictate the nature of the car when done. With only two driven wheels, your planned use for the vehicle needs some good thinking.

u have for sale it says an 05u block with hks 2.8lt stroker bottom end was the o5u bit stand for

Tis the code given to the normal, run of the mill RB26's. I.e. not N1 or GT block. Theres some good info on SAU regarding this.

Edited by GeeTR
I have the tomei stroker hidden in a GT block.

Turbo's are HKS GT RS's with Tomei Procams 270 @ 10.25mm with a ported head.

Fullboost (1.65 bar) @ 4800 RPM in 4th (give or take 100 RPM)

Wouldnt change a thing. At times i wish i had maybe 2530's but it really isnt that bad.

personally i would be pissed with that kinda boost response....

try 1.8bar at about 4000rpm in 4th from a 2.6l with no head porting and a t04z

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...