Jump to content
SAU Community

32gtr


gtrzilla
 Share

Recommended Posts

Picking up my 32 GTR tomorrow :P

This car is basically immaculate, and stock, with the one non standard thing being tein suspension. Stock exhaust, everything.

I was planning to keep the car stock as a collectors car, but now im thinking that it would be a better collector car if it was AUS deliver, however this is an import.

So my question is:

What mods would anyone out there with a 32 gtr do

I'm concerned about the k's being wound back (76,000km *go figure :P )

Hence i dont want to run the car into a rebuild, i was thinking maybe just a custom exhaust system and pod filters, thats it.

So do you think my turbo blades are going to end up in my engine :D

whats your thoughts

Stock, or not stock?? that is the question

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your concerned about them pull them off and have a look... but considering you've bought the car already you'd be hoping the turbos are fine...

PS i would put a 2nd hand exhaust on and pods if i bought a $17g gtr and cross my fingers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congrats on purchase, welcome to debt

This link has RB26's in various states of tune and power output.

Zhaust & pods will raise your boost to around 10-11psi and give you about 220rwkw. Running more boost then that is a risk, and yes, your motor could get scared by some ceramic dust. Rem its an old car, so they've been known to go bang on stock boost :P

Edited by GeeTR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ALSO

did a compression test/ underbody check and all that before i bought it

compression test:

Cyl 1 - 130psi

Cyl 2 - 130psi

Cyl 3 - 130psi

Cyl 4 - 130psi

Cyl 5 - 125psi

Cyl 6 - 125psi

does this seem about right

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is there any real reason to believe that a stock standard gtr, with maybe pods only will not run for ages without having major engine issues

Just the everlasting doubt about if the car was stock its whole life...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tis a good point

but from what i know, and my mechanic thinks its untouched in his opinion (RE customs)

Not doubting your mechanic mate but a steam clean after pulling all the bits and pieces off can do wonders... Doesn't mean that it has happened to yours though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is there any real reason to believe that a stock standard gtr, with maybe pods only will not run for ages without having major engine issues

It could, but can you really drive a stock one for "ages"?

I found the 4wd and HICAS makes it feel too safe & boring. Quickly it will feel like hot poo and you'll want more :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah for sure

must just be one of those things tho, if its the car you want its the price you pay ;)

same with the k's far from genuine!!

mate theres an import yard just down thw road and i regularly see clean as and straight 32 gtr's with newhere from 30000 to 40000 ive seen bout 3 or 4 now so maby urs might be genuine who knows

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah the k'ms thing is strange

you would assume they would be wound back but you would never really know i guess

i spose you could tell from general wear on the interior etc, but even so, steering wheels, gearnobs and stuff can be changed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congrats on purchase, welcome to debt

:D Thats a great one!

As for the new gtr, congrats!

Always warm it up and cool it down, dont skimp on servicing and enjoy the thing :blink:

As far as mods go, if it was mine id do;

ECU

full exhaust

1bar on EBC

New airbox/pods if you want some sound

That should be roughly 260rwkw, which will feel like plenty....for now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm with Ash, leave it standard and enjoy it. well just an exhaust the standard ones are apalling. and pull out the boost restrictor to run 12psi if it hasn't been done.

But when you get it, change all the oils and fluids (engine oil, diff oils, gearbox oil, attessa fluid, xfer case fluid, brake fluid), timing belt, water pump, clean the injectors and put it on a dyno to check fuel pump and coilpacks are ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm with Ash, leave it standard and enjoy it. well just an exhaust the standard ones are apalling. and pull out the boost restrictor to run 12psi if it hasn't been done.

But when you get it, change all the oils and fluids (engine oil, diff oils, gearbox oil, attessa fluid, xfer case fluid, brake fluid), timing belt, water pump, clean the injectors and put it on a dyno to check fuel pump and coilpacks are ok.

was thinking about doing the exhaust and restrictor

but i dont want to run the engine on that extra power incase the turbo's explode and end up in my engine, resulting in a rebuild :)

i really want to avoid a rebuild at all costs...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pods are a waste of time and money with your intentions in mind.

The exhaust and other 'efficiency' modifications are worthwhile that won't greatly contribute to wear like;

Lightweight flywheel/rims

Upgrade the engine management to a power fc or similar

Upgrading the cams is worthwhile to give you a bigger power band and make the power with less rpm, boost and intake temps. The fitting of adjustable cam gears even by themselves gets you some good gains.

Appart from that the maintenence program for your car is very important to enjoy it. Since the odo shows 78,000kms you don't know if the timing belt is done, so I'd be doing that along with the idler and tensioner and possibly water pump if required. A full coooling system service is also a must do, for the Aussie summer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ exactly.

dont worry about pods. ive read somewhere that the stock airbox can run up to 250kw? maybe 300? dont quote me though. just get a nice panel filter, it will also keep you out of trouble with Mr Plod

that, an exhaust, rip out the boost restrisctor, and then get used to it for a bit.

when you need more power, then look at new turbos/ecu/intercooler etc etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

was thinking about doing the exhaust and restrictor

but i dont want to run the engine on that extra power incase the turbo's explode and end up in my engine, resulting in a rebuild :D

i really want to avoid a rebuild at all costs...

LOL Wouldn't buy a 32 then.

Hahahaha^^^^^^

I ran a set of stock GTR turbos for ages on 15psi, no issues resulting from them (the tune i was on was a bit wrong though so its being rebuilt now)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • I don't how much the car makes a difference or whether it is just a question of gearbox and clutch. On mine it's fine. Pull type Nismo coppermix twin (standard, not competition) on the 5 speed in my Stagea. OEM slave cylinder. Bite point is a few cm off the very bottom of the pedal. Clutch pedal all the way down to put in gear, and when heading off at the lights, there's a tiny bit of nothing and then it starts biting. And fully engaged before the pedal is all the way released. There's a bit of play at the top where the pedal does nothing anymore. Are you in Australia @ck_chino? If you are set on using a Nismo slave cylinder I have one new-in-box at home. Ordered it together with the clutch but didn't get it fitted. We can work something out if you want it
    • I am using a pull nismo coppermix twin in an r34 getrag box, had both the standard slave and  then the nismo one. Adjusted pedal to get bite point how I wanted , it is on the higher side, but would fully disengage past half way down.  I also read that the nismo slave won't work but I had no issues with the stroke, might become one later as clutch wears but 2+ years of happy motoring so far.  Take the above as one input only, specially as my setup is a bit unique in that I am using an S15 clutch master , cefiro clutch pedal, custom braided clutch line. Lots of variables at play. 
    • Oh for sure, I'm just recounting my thoughts 😎 I'm not what you've got there to fuzt with.... likely my first idea was on the money -- rebuild or replace connectors. You can get a lot of connector stuff here  -> https://www.rapidcables.com.au/ Didn't look in the boot of mine, because I replaced these when I renewed the pump (plastic of connectors had gone brittle) edit: what I used... https://www.efihardware.com/products/2120/Deutsch-DTM-Connector-Kit-6-Pin ...cheaper... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364900039138
    • In no way was i suggesting it’s your fault mate. The trailer cable has a plug that I removed. I will have a closer look, but I did remove the trailer wiring cable with the tow ball as I don’t need it on my silo. i have replaced the fuel pump already there’s no need to remove the cradle again I can see the wire colours from it in.
×
×
  • Create New...