Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heat soak on a dyno is due to the fan not directed to give it enough airflow, this doesn't happen on the road.

In short it's not a problem you should be fussed about. Getting traction and brakes are worth more stress and effort than this one on a stock turbo.

Agreed^^^ On the dyno, wind forces dont reflect driving

in same position with the electronic spoiler,thats why i'm currently using the 34smic,but will be going fmic with return pipe eventually.

ps. i like those blue driving lights.

came like that from japan, i think the jap owner tinted the reflector blue inside the foglight. As its still the factory nissan foglight. Or just a blue globe, never checked :(

heat soak on a dyno is due to the fan not directed to give it enough airflow, this doesn't happen on the road.

In short it's not a problem you should be fussed about. Getting traction and brakes are worth more stress and effort than this one on a stock turbo.

Smart man!

All the stories ive read of heat soak were people doing couple of runs on the dyno. The fan is usually pointed towards the radiator and the SMIC misses out on the airflow.

Thanks all

I am installing an Apexi Hybrid that uses the same pipes as the side mount but will be covering the pipes in insulation from the cooler to the engine. This should reduce the heat soak.

Im not going fmic just yet,but been thinking about just buying a small slim cooler(Just Jap.$180 i think) having the end tank modified to return(like us r32 owners did before installing the r34smic) which cost $50(depending where you go) and getting same shop to make cooler piping(would not have a clue on price).Each to their own.

Just thought id let you guys know as i think this might be alot cheaper option.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The spray cans were in the "Kiln" room whilst I was preping the parts,  so probably around 2 hours to get them warmed up, the kiln room has 3 small ovens running at 100°c, 3 medium sized ovens running 100°c, and the large one I used running at 80°c, the room itself was about 28°c, I also spent a bit of time taping up the parts in the room as well, and by the time I was done I would assume that the parts were around that 28°c As for power, I expect a couple of Killerwasps up high would be achievable with the current mods, I'm still running the MZR 2.0 intake and throttle body, and there is a slight mismatch with the 2.0 intake (smaller) and 2.5 intake ports (larger) on the head, this intake is matched and specifically designed to fix this issue with the ports mismatch, the throttle body is also a couple of mm larger, OEM is 65mm, the Bosch is 68mm In the end it will look "prettier" than the molded plastic thing that is the OEM MZR 2.0 intake As for the LSD, it's the OEM Torsen which works fine for what I use the car for, plus, basically no maintenance apart from the occasional oil change
    • I was at Tunehouse in Marrickville (great team over there really know their VR's) , and I spotted this Very clean R35.  
    • Mate , I have the same issue right now with the exhaust noise , if you can tell me what your local guy did , I'll talk to my guys and see if they can do the same. Power is good but it just too loud when put it down. 
    • The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?
    • Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
×
×
  • Create New...