Silk Road Front Upper Camber Arms

[Sydneykid]

Random question:

You can move the bottom of the upright forward for more castor. But given the arm has stagger built in, can you move the top further back? That assumes you fab up your own arms - which isn't hard looking at the Cusco ones.

The problem is the alignment of the inner and out joints. There is the stagger as you have mentioned, plus there is also the question as to whether or not they would be better (wear the bushes/joints less) if they weren't in fact parrallel.

As for making your own arms, we aren't allowed to do that in Production or Improved Production Car racing, so it's not something I have ever contemplated. Personally (if I had no restrictions), I would simply ditch the R32 uprights and upper control arms and use the R33/34 equivalents. The wide spaced upper "wishbone" is a far superior design compared to the simple "I" beam used on R32's. All you would need to do is to remove the R32 brackets and weld on the R33/34 style, then bolt up the arms. Much easier than making arms from scratch that are always going to be compromised in function by the over all design. By selecting the appropriate locations for the brackets you can tailor the camber curves. In fact you could make the curves adjustable by having multiple location holes.

Cheers

Gary

[djr81]

The problem is the alignment of the inner and out joints. There is the stagger as you have mentioned, plus there is also the question as to whether or not they would be better (wear the bushes/joints less) if they weren't in fact parrallel.

As for making your own arms, we aren't allowed to do that in Production or Improved Production Car racing, so it's not something I have ever contemplated. Personally (if I had no restrictions), I would simply ditch the R32 uprights and upper control arms and use the R33/34 equivalents. The wide spaced upper "wishbone" is a far superior design compared to the simple "I" beam used on R32's. All you would need to do is to remove the R32 brackets and weld on the R33/34 style, then bolt up the arms. Much easier than making arms from scratch that are always going to be compromised in function by the over all design. By selecting the appropriate locations for the brackets you can tailor the camber curves. In fact you could make the curves adjustable by having multiple location holes.

Cheers

Gary

Rotating them did occur to me. I guess if you rotate them by the same amount as the difference between stock castor & however much castor you run it would be about right. Ofcourse it makes the fabrication that much harder - probably too hard really. Square is easy, parallel is easy, off by a couple of degrees gets hard to replicate.

[STATUS]

The problem is the alignment of the inner and out joints. There is the stagger as you have mentioned, plus there is also the question as to whether or not they would be better (wear the bushes/joints less) if they weren't in fact parrallel.

As for making your own arms, we aren't allowed to do that in Production or Improved Production Car racing, so it's not something I have ever contemplated. Personally (if I had no restrictions), I would simply ditch the R32 uprights and upper control arms and use the R33/34 equivalents. The wide spaced upper "wishbone" is a far superior design compared to the simple "I" beam used on R32's. All you would need to do is to remove the R32 brackets and weld on the R33/34 style, then bolt up the arms. Much easier than making arms from scratch that are always going to be compromised in function by the over all design. By selecting the appropriate locations for the brackets you can tailor the camber curves. In fact you could make the curves adjustable by having multiple location holes.

Cheers

Gary

yeah the later ones are nice, i half finished fitting a combination of GTst brackets and arms (but using the GTR uprights due to improved bolt in alignment) to my 180sx project and have put it on hold to fit up the later setup, sick and tired of uncle mac in s series cars.. we will see if it is worthwhile.. if not ive only wasted a few hours and some mig wire

[djr81]

I found this in my travels:

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...ylinebnr32.html

Specifically the upper link bracket and the transverse link are interesting. Shame there is no really specific dimensional info offered, although some lengths etc are quoted.

Edited March 20, 2008 by djr81

[dori34]

perthz performance aka pzp camber arms are also available for under $320 delivered or something.

google it for the website link

[mystery_kid]

how much camber do the noltec ones let you dial in ? compared to say whiteline

[Mr. Keets]

I've been in contact with UAS in regard to the adjustable upper arms for the 32....

Currently UAS are negotiating a big batch for sale. No date but stay tuned.

In the mean time I'm going with the "double" KCA336 kit concept as discussed in post 17 by SK

[eXc]

I finnaly had time to get my driftshop arms in. Seem ok so far (100kms) haven't got an alignment yet...monday hopefully

[eXc]

Ok finally got an alignment. With the Drift Shop, Midori style, I went from -0.5 to -2 before I ran out of adjustment. So Around 1.5 degrees I got. I would guestimate I could have done about the same distance in the positive direction, so a total adjustment of around 3 degrees is my (educated) guess.

Cheers

Chris

[Cr@zY FreD]

hi all

have been researching how to get some camber adjustment on my R33

and have come across these arms on ebay

they just dont look like R33 items althought it states they are ?

does any one know what they are ? if pic works

[Sydneykid]

hi all

have been researching how to get some camber adjustment on my R33

and have come across these arms on ebay

they just dont look like R33 items althought it states they are ?

does any one know what they are ? if pic works

They look to be a 2 piece arm, in comparison to the standard upper control arm which is one piece. One arm bolts to each side of the upright (hub), then bolts to the inner pivot points on the standard brackets. The trick would be to adjust the pair of arms in tandem, otherwise you will screw up the caster and most likely the bump steer.

I would strongly suggest that adjustable bushes are a better proposition, unless you need gross amounts of camber correction ($183 on the Group Buy).

Cheers

Gary