Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have heard so many ppl saying just use the 25 sump just use the 25... i dont think that is the best option high energy makes a 6'5 lt sump for the 25 but im unsure if i should get sumthing like that for the 26 block... ne suggestions

o and if neone knows if everything from a 25 like ac p/s pump alternator just bolts straight up to a 26 block but its an n1 block so neone got ne ideas on the subject

Edited by skylinekid

rb25 sump will not fit the rb26 - hence the need for adapter plates for the 4wd rb26 sumps on the rb30. either build a custom one, or have the rb26 sump modified to remove the front diff and welded up.

i believe the belts and spacing on the accessory pumps are different from rb25 and rb26

RB26 sump is thick, provides strength.

The diff needs to be lopped off, and material removed.

Any decent fabricator will be able to knock it up for you if you show them and give them some specs and stuff.

I've had mine done, RB26 motor/26 sump, RWD. Works a treat :D

26 is drilled for both sumps which are interchangable except for the rb26 oil pickup which sits further out than on 25's meaning the 25sump will not fit unless you bash it out a good 10-15mm to clear. To use the 26 sump you will need to lop of the diff casing and plug up the driveshaft holes, make sure you trial fit it to the motor and the motor into the car before final fittment as it sits very close to the steering rack...(you need to take a fair amount of material off on the drivers side).

post-1925-1200363827_thumb.jpg

Edited by DCIEVE

The standard hi energy sump fouls the front sway bars, Also it help if you get a 10mm spring steel adapt plate in there.. If you're wanting to run a/c and P.S the pulley system on your rb25 should be swap over to rb26 including your harmonic.. or what ever it is call...temp. sensors has to be swap and a whole lot of other crap needs to be swap....

I got an extended hi-energy it holds 8.5lts and what ever the oil cooler holds.

Almost forgot the most important part. extend your oil pick up to suit new sump.

Thats one hard to understand post! If the high energy sits lower than the std 26 sump (I assume seeing as your talking about extending the oil pickup) then it will likely also protrude lower than the engine x-member. We got my sump to about 8litres without going any lower than stock, sits perfectly level with the x-member.

surely there must be sumone who specialise in this sorta stuff. and would already know wat to do to be able to give me a bit more capacity as well as fit straight in neways thnx for ur comments

When you put the Hi energy sump in the front section of it foul o the sway br, well on mine it did. Also the pick up of the rb26 in abit to the side and it would help the engine a fair bit if it was moved further back infront of the trap door. But I cant remember it hitting the x member. Im getting old and my memory is failing. next time I get near my car I will take foto of mod sway bar and sump. I have photos some amongst the pron, too many to go through and find it.

As for rb26 sump and diff weight, just chuck it on a scale and find out.. weight is not somuch of an issue regarding street car, more so torque and power and skinnier mates.

surely there must be sumone who specialise in this sorta stuff.

You dont have a fabricator yet?

With your custom big setup, you'll be needing to find one quite soon id imagine :)

You dont have a fabricator yet?

With your custom big setup, you'll be needing to find one quite soon id imagine :)

the turbo setup is being done by etm....

the intecooler pipe r pretty much spot on already to suite hypertune plenum...

and bsides if u knew where i lived u'd undastand y i have trouble trusting ppl with nethin

surely there must be sumone who specialise in this sorta stuff. and would already know wat to do to be able to give me a bit more capacity as well as fit straight in neways thnx for ur comments

Good reply Nick

yeah i was gonna say to skylinekid there have been some good posts above on what you need to do from people who have been there and done it. I dont know what you were expecting but thats valuable free information that would save you some $$$ figuring out this stuff yourself through trial and error

Good reply Nick

yeah i was gonna say to skylinekid there have been some good posts above on what you need to do from people who have been there and done it. I dont know what you were expecting but thats valuable free information that would save you some $$$ figuring out this stuff yourself through trial and error

mate i have no access to tig nor mig welder... i have no fabricators in town who would even consider goin newhere near the saump bczu all they will say is ewww import o god nah go to brisbane.... f**kin shits me grrrrr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all, I have a completely stock 1991 R32 GTR, yesterday I took my car out and went for about a thirty minute drive. It was fine on the way there but when returning home I think the car might have gone into a limp mode. I was cruising in 5th gear around 130km/h, the hicas light came on and there was a significant loss of power. About a minute later I hear a thump, the car starts driving normal again and is fine the rest of the drive back. This is the second time its happened, same as now it was fine on the trip there. On the way back it had the hicas light on but that time I would feel the power going in and out before hearing the same thump and it being fine.  I have no idea idea what causing this, but if anyone has any ideas it would be great as a start chasing the cause of this. Also I can provide more details if needed. Thank you
    • When sanding across a convex panel, you need to sand, as much as possible, at right angles to the curve. If the panel is compound convex curved (ie curved in both directions) then you are SOL and have to use "craftsmanship" to get it right.
    • Today in Skyline arts and crafts!! I’ve made some progress.    had to put extra notes in there so I don’t stuff it up 😂
    • This sounds like me. And then why I leave shit that I had previously hobbled together broken. Lately I've changed strategies to "If I don't want to justify the money on decent stuff, I'm not going to justify hobbling it together". I'm still for DIY, but DIY it properly is more my thing. However, I am terrible on not setting up backups still... Which reminds me, I need to go backup some of my work VM machines... Oh, it's also why I've become a lover of building things into Docker Containers... Then I just need a machine that can run docker, and bam, that specific system is up and running, on the specific versions of everything I need for it to run (In the event a change in required software version breaks something else). Also, these days, my steep learning curves are spent with work related stuff, and on very varied projects, that my want to do other random projects like build a dashboard for my own car has dwindled away to "I just want the car running", which is my current PITA, as I'm getting the Landcruiser usable again, and it has just been non-stop the past 6 to 8 weeks of buying parts, and working on it. Oh, and tools that are meant to be fit for purpose... And they break, because 25 year old 4WD decides it's stronger... But by the time I have it ready to roll back out the drive way, nearly all the stuff in it will have been touched and serviced, so the damn thing better give me NO FREAKING ISSUES, for at least the next 50,000KMs! Just redone whole front of the motor, and resealed the up top stuff, replaced a bunch of things getting perished, new timing belt done, water pump, lower timing cover (Toyota diesel engine runs timing GEARS for the bottom half the motor, and a timing belt from halfway up to the top), new harmonic balancer, fix up the alternator, new thermostat, full swivel hub rebuild, new bearings and seals front and back, steering box rebuild, new battery, and today, it turns out a rear shock has let go, so four new shocks are about to go on order, and that will leave me with after the next run of work, to see if I need to order just a brake caliper re-seal, or if I'll need new pistons in them too. Oh, and I'll finish welding in the new floor sheet metal shortly too. Presently I just want it finished already... But once all the above is done, I still need to fully service diffs, gearbox, transfer, and motor. Then flush and bleed the clutch, and flush and bleed the brakes. But enough about our waffle, back to Duncan's heat problems... I think for Duncan he just gets a thermoswitch, and a manual switch to run some water misters. Thermo so it's only on above certain temps, and the manual switch so it can be turned off even if it is above certain temperatures. IE, switch on for "I'm now on track", then it doesn't need any "smart" computers that might try and do things wrong. And switch the thing off completely on the cool down lap, so when he stops in pits, there's not even a possibility of it dripping any water out to get him in trouble.
×
×
  • Create New...