Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just another note - i dunno about the difference with hi flo cats - havent read that much about em really...

my order of mods is (with the pod air filter done - have you done that?) cat back mandrel bent system, extractors, spark plugs (i know not really a mod but hey), timing, apexi super-AFC II, hi flo cat (?)

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

extractors definately a worth while mod, and the best value for money i can recomend. I will be selling just about everything early next year, including the s-afc ii due to the new engine, and mods to my current engine have now ceased other then i dyno tune i hope to do in the next few weeks, its just hard to find spare time and money while at school.

Dam guys where do u get your $$ from, prehapes i dont want to know.

anyway i should be getting my N/A soon, i will happly buy any parts you have up for graps when your new engine come along na_r33. even though i live in melbourne i cant stand in the way of a possible bargan.

plz tell me the dino results so i can prove to my mates i dont need turbo....

lol work my arse off, lol think i will have to get some more hours at "TARGET" box hill to support my car. And go to TAFE (Sad i know)

i will getting my N/A a soon as i sell my holden vr berlina.

then watch out ladies becasue their will be a new player in town. lol

cant wait to ge my skyline only down side atm is the insurance aspect of things, but hey what can u do about it.

best option i now belive is an engine imobiliser i had one on my first car and try to steal it myself and had no luck an auto elec mate told my once they are imobilised the system has to be taken out completely to get the car to run which can take hours if they can even find it depending on if its an aftermarket model or stocko or install a kill switch, all these thing i should have done to start with (stupid me)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...