Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just another note - i dunno about the difference with hi flo cats - havent read that much about em really...

my order of mods is (with the pod air filter done - have you done that?) cat back mandrel bent system, extractors, spark plugs (i know not really a mod but hey), timing, apexi super-AFC II, hi flo cat (?)

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

extractors definately a worth while mod, and the best value for money i can recomend. I will be selling just about everything early next year, including the s-afc ii due to the new engine, and mods to my current engine have now ceased other then i dyno tune i hope to do in the next few weeks, its just hard to find spare time and money while at school.

Dam guys where do u get your $$ from, prehapes i dont want to know.

anyway i should be getting my N/A soon, i will happly buy any parts you have up for graps when your new engine come along na_r33. even though i live in melbourne i cant stand in the way of a possible bargan.

plz tell me the dino results so i can prove to my mates i dont need turbo....

lol work my arse off, lol think i will have to get some more hours at "TARGET" box hill to support my car. And go to TAFE (Sad i know)

i will getting my N/A a soon as i sell my holden vr berlina.

then watch out ladies becasue their will be a new player in town. lol

cant wait to ge my skyline only down side atm is the insurance aspect of things, but hey what can u do about it.

best option i now belive is an engine imobiliser i had one on my first car and try to steal it myself and had no luck an auto elec mate told my once they are imobilised the system has to be taken out completely to get the car to run which can take hours if they can even find it depending on if its an aftermarket model or stocko or install a kill switch, all these thing i should have done to start with (stupid me)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
    • I just used a can that's easy to empty after every session and pour it back into the fill hole. Takes about 40 seconds when you have 40 minutes between runs :p I don't see how changing any catch can stuff will reduce pressure if the system is sealed. And if it's vented - Does it matter where it's vented with regards to overall pressure?
    • Welp, too late already committed to the cam cover breathers to be welded on. I did think about adding a catch can in line with the drivers side sump breather as a phase 2 along with a drain to the sump on the original catch can but with an inline ball valve so I can have it closed if needed.    Likely a single breather would have been enough but I think I’m overcompensating to hopefully not have to empty my catch can and clean up oil over flow every session.    out of curiosity has anyone actually measured crank case pressure before and after various mods? I’m considering adding a sensor for science 
    • Is it a dog or synchro box? I guess either way, if it is new and crunching in one gear only, it has to come out and go back to the shop to check/measure as there is either an assembly or manufacturing issue
×
×
  • Create New...