Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to buy new Fuel injectors.

However i don't know much about them, as in what size i need to buy to suit my car.

I currently have a Greddy 550hp Fuel pump, yet im not sure if the current injectors are stock

or aftermarket.

Could somebody give me advice on how i can find out which size injector to buy and what i

should look out for, as i have a friends friend selling Tomei 555cc injectors, for RB25.

Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201629-new-fuel-injectors/
Share on other sites

how much power u want to make.....

my car is currently sumwhere between 230-260kw i am estimating, from the previous owners claims.. haven't yet got it on the Dyno.

But what would you recomend is a reliable power gain, that won't cause engine damage.

I was thinking, 10-15kw?? or is that unrealistic??

Would it require a full engine re map??

yeh those 555cc should be good i think as im running the same but 600cc in my gtr and hoping for 300awkw..pfc would be good also get her tuned..although remap could do the trick \...

Oh, for the short term, i was looking at around a confirmed 280Rwkw, as there isn't much more i cant get without a rebuild...

So this might sound stupid, but the injectors can pretty much be set anyway right?? but they're max capacity is what 555cc puts out? so i could buy 555cc injectors and still set it below there potential , to suit my engine?

the state of the tune will decide on engine damage

get the tune checked by a good local tuner with an AFR plot to see how the car is setup

they should then recommend where to go from there to make it safe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...