Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking at taking my car out to the track. right now i am performing the neccessary upgrades to ensure i can race.

I saw that i need to have a secondary bonnet restraint. What do you guys use?

I have a standard bonnet and i think i will look like a wanker if i put bonnet pins on it. Anyone got other suggestions?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201649-secondary-bonnet-restraints/
Share on other sites

Im looking at taking my car out to the track. right now i am performing the neccessary upgrades to ensure i can race.

I saw that i need to have a secondary bonnet restraint. What do you guys use?

I have a standard bonnet and i think i will look like a wanker if i put bonnet pins on it. Anyone got other suggestions?

Cheers

Does it state that its needed for a stock bonnet?

The OEM latch is unlikely to fail, and if it does, the safety catch is also unlikely to fail.. if you see it quick enough.

I wouldnt be worried about a secondary catch for an OEM bonnet. Unless it clearly states it IS required for an OEM bonnet too.

Iv been track racing for years, and the only people i know with pins are those with CF bonnets where the catch isnt bolted to anything structural, IE the fiberglass skeleton.

Also, out of the many many many days i have been to i have NEVER ever seen a bonnet come unlatched or fly open.

The odd muffler fall out the ass, fuel tank straps coming off and blown motors/boxes, even an engine mount bolt working loose and flying out under the car... :D but never a bonnet!

Edited by gotRICE?

I've seen many carbon fibre bonnets come off actually. It's really hilarious to watch (not for the owner of the car though).

They often smash backwards and smash the roof and the windscreen. Sometimes they crack badly and bits of the bonnet flies off.

Most of the track days ive scrutineered, a secondary bonnet restraint is necessary. Lots of people hook an old belt from the bonnet frame and clip it down through the bumper or so. Another way is with a small chain and a shackle/caribbina and hook it onto the radiator support.

basically it depends on the Supplementary regulations for the event you are entering. If the Supp regs dont say anything you don't need a secondary restraint unless it is full on racing (schedule C requires secondary restraints for non road regstered cars)

Most events dont need a secondary restraint for modern cars

1 question though,

With using a belt or the clips etc, what if theres a fire under the bonnet?

Be a bit hard to get them undone in time?

mind you though if there is a fire Id be out quick smart! but if a small,little fire started?

Despite the dual catch system std on modern cars the track days we do with the WRX club here in Vic state you need one. There are lots of ways you can do this.....bonnent pins are fine with a std bonnent, others use a belt strap fitted to a suitable spot and I use a wire cable attached to the frame of my bonnent which hooks to the radiator support.

  • 5 months later...

my advice is buy one of these babies. http://www.initialdrift.com.au/forums/view...074&start=0

cost about $25 and make sure you ask for it to be sheathed with the rubber heatshrink (stops it scratching up stuff). easy to fit, just need to drill a hole.

now that I've bought mine I just keep it in my helmet bag with licence and helmet etc so that I never forget to take it to a track day/sprint/whatever.

I'm surprised you need a secondary restraint for a skyline, its certainly not required in the CAMS regs (late model cars don't need an additional restraint). Unless it is requried by the supplementary regulations, I haven't seen them

Yeah some events now are starting to require them now even for late model cars. Up till now later model cars with an un-modified 2 stage factory catch have been ok, but for some reason of late it seems they are moving towards making all cars use a secondary restraint. Even a recent drift day I attended required all cars to have one and that is classed as a non-speed event!

Still for $25 and 5 mins drilling a hole it's not too onerous. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dang. I love the little 'oil used' bingo card on the side.   🤣  Well, now they can use a box and an oil-filled goon.
    • Many many moons ago, I was chatting with Andy Wyatt, about his auto ignition tuning. One of the HUGE things he said to me, when tuning for power, right where you hit peak ignition timing for your max torque, dramatically increases NOx emissions. He was finding in testing, particularly on engines you could advance timing beyond peak torque, that backing the ignition timing off a couple of degrees only made for a small drop in torque (compared to if you keep backing it off further the same amount of degrees) but dramatically reduced NOx emissions. I'd say targetting for 14.7, and he's even mentioned in some scenarios going slightly leaner, and pulling a few degrees of IGN timing will help pass for emissions quite a lot. However, who tunes an RB for emissions
    • The main stuff from.Vibrant I see is more their intercooler piping, and everyone raving about their clamps, but when I looked it was about $150 per clamp... I was a bit   I also thought the public price SP had up was high. As Mark said, a normal exhaust shop can fab them. It was many years ago that I had a full exhaust built, but for a full turbo back exhaust, and 2 custom built mufflers, plus a high flow cat, was about $1,100, and that was fully installed, drive in, drive out. I believe SP was about $900 for 2 mufflers, just supplied   These days, I just buy the material and built it myself, because I need to stretch my $$$
    • I'm pretty sure if it's considered a gasoline powered vehicle you have to do certification against a fixed, very expensive certification fuel.  If you add two precats and then replace the main cat with two cats back to back you can get an RB26 to do 0.24 g/mi HC, 1.6 g/mi CO, and 0.3 g/mi NOx on the FTP-75 drive cycle. Found this out courtesy of California's laws at great expense. Divide by 1.61 to get g/km. So even with extra cats + precats you're blowing past the NOx limit by probably 2.3x. Probably the only way to get an RB25 or RB26 to meet euro 4 purely from an emissions per km standpoint and not durability/OBD2 requirements is retrofit at least intake side VVT, clearance the pistons to allow the full 50 degrees of advance so part throttle EGR can be maximized, and change the wastegate control from conventional 7 psi spring for example to one that is always fully open if the wastegate line is at 1 atm or higher and only close it in response to vacuum. See BMW's N54 engine as a reference for how this works. You would need to find space for a vacuum tank to function as an accumulator in this system. That way you can avoid any heat loss to the turbine as much as possible during cold start to heat the catalyst faster. Then find some way to eliminate as much as possible cold start enrichment to light off the catalyst rapidly. Maybe secondary air injection if there's no way to avoid cold start enrichment. Close coupled catalysts in the downpipe are probably necessary. I would also probably swap to EV14s, pick something with the correct spray targeting + dual cone pattern for the intake manifold you're using. EV1 style injectors to pass anything resembling modern emissions requires a very annoying air assisted injector system to break up the droplets at part throttle/idle which still doesn't work that great compared to just having smaller droplets from the injector to begin with. Realistically, you're probably going to be financially ahead if you just pay the fines instead. Or don't drive it into the city center. There's a reason why Nissan never bothered to even attempt certifying an RB for CA/US emissions. The VG30 needed external EGR on top of NVCS to pass in the 90s. Doing all of this work is also distinctly expensive and you're going to struggle to find anyone who is remotely interested in helping. 
    • I remember those, people use to steal them to make bongs.....
×
×
  • Create New...