Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

(Ozzy)

Guys, here is the reply from SHELL. I take it that there are many cynics among you, but have a read anyway.

For what it's worth, I have given both BP Ultimate and Optimax a pretty good go each, and the only difference I can see is that I seem to get a slightly better economy with the Optimax. By the way...I do not work for SHELL.

The original claims made on this forum (somewhat a little ambiguous to me) are contained within the **

(SHELL) In reference to Optimax it will keep its Ron unless there is significant evaporation and therefore we are confident to say that it will not lose its RON rating to 94 in 3-4 days. Optimax may be in tank for at least a week at some service stations therefore we would see an increase in complaints if this was the case. Therefore it would be good for you to verify the source

of the claim as stated in the first point below.

**1. A significantly shorter shelf life. So the ron rating will decrease below 94 after only 3-4 days.**

(SHELL) Shelf life of Optimax is the same as for other types of petrol. It can be stored up to one year as long as the storage conditions are adequate, Containers used to store fuel for long periods of time should be filled to 95% full and capped tightly. Containers whould be stored out of direct sunlight and preferably kept below

27 deg C. This will help reduce the evaporation of teh petrol during storage and reduce exposure of the petrol to air and water.

**2. That optimax is a heavier fuel, so why it is a higher RON its power delivery is hampened by the cleaning agents etc in the fuel.**

(SHELL) In reference to the second point; The octane rating of Optimax is higher than the Premium ULP due to the fuel being blended from special high octane components produced by the refinery. Optimax is produced only at Shell refineries using high octane fuel components. The high Octane is due to the blended fuel and not the use of octane boosting fuel additive.

Hope this enlightens the comments made.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20165-petrol/page/2/#findComment-440581
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...