Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Having FAST is all well and good but can anyone get a hold of the nissan australia software that actually spits out the prices ?

No can do buddy.

The dealerships use FAST to find out part numbers only. They then take that number and put it in a completely different system which controls their ordering/stock taking etc and I imagine that even if you could get the software on your PC you would still need to have a connection to the dealer network for it to be of any use.

  • 1 year later...

Hi there guys does any one know any good sites for downloading this?. I have the 1.56 gig copy and it keeps saying i dont have enough space on my Hard drive for it when i have 120 gig free!..

Any ideas guys

Can anyone help i cant work out what to do? if anyone has a simple way of downloading it so it runs without having to download a million other item that would be good.

My copy which is the 1.56gb one works fine. just follow the instructions that should come with it and its fairly simple to install. If for some reason yours didnt come with instructions PM me and ill send you a copy.

At which stage are you getting an error?

Check all of your file paths in the setup.

+1 above

ill try and zip the copy i have its not the newest version tho think instrustions are with it still.? ill make certain all files are there so give me time pleasejust make certain that you check all file paths thats where i was having troubles.

give me sometime and ill put a link up ok maybe mmmmmmk ok :devil:

  • 5 weeks later...
No can do buddy.

The dealerships use FAST to find out part numbers only. They then take that number and put it in a completely different system which controls their ordering/stock taking etc and I imagine that even if you could get the software on your PC you would still need to have a connection to the dealer network for it to be of any use.

this is correct. they run 2 programs at the same time and swap back and forward to transfer part numbers. you will need to be on the same system as them as they can acsess interstate systems to orderparts and get prices on stuff they dont carry. i asked the spareparts guys at work if they would lend me the program and they just laughed. apparently unless your a nissan dealership you shouldnt even have that program.

well of course.. thats how nissan dealers make their money. techs dont have to fault find anything these days :sick:

on a similar note on topic, does anyone know if it can be used to turn off the "key in ignition"/lights on/door open chime on my 99 stagea?

i dunno how nissan software works but i work for mazda and theirs you can change most alerts on the car.

well of course.. thats how nissan dealers make their money. techs dont have to fault find anything these days :sick:

on a similar note on topic, does anyone know if it can be used to turn off the "key in ignition"/lights on/door open chime on my 99 stagea?

i dunno how nissan software works but i work for mazda and theirs you can change most alerts on the car.

if its anything like the r32, you unscrew the panel that sits above the drivers knees - attached to that is a relay - if you unplug the relay it'll stop the alert

-D

well of course.. thats how nissan dealers make their money. techs dont have to fault find anything these days :P

on a similar note on topic, does anyone know if it can be used to turn off the "key in ignition"/lights on/door open chime on my 99 stagea?

i dunno how nissan software works but i work for mazda and theirs you can change most alerts on the car.

not sure if you can on a stag but you need a nissan consult to do that. got to go to a nissan dealership bro. will cost ya at least 100bucks. hahahaha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...