Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I finally got around to installing my Saber water temp gauge (electrical) and using one of those water temp attachments that go in the top radiator hose.

It has worked fine for about 6-8 trips (probably 3-4 hours of travel time) but this morning the gauge is flicking/jumping up/down all over the place, going from 80 degrees C to 110, 120, back to 80, 90, 130, 100, 140 back to 80 etc.... etc..... all within about 5 seconds. It might stay at the propoer temp for another 10 seconds but then go into up/down mode again.

It seems to remain more stable when I'm at a stop, but will still flick up and down randomly.

Anyone know what could be causing this????

Fixxxer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201879-water-temp-gauge-install/
Share on other sites

Which particular sender did you use (gauge, or ECU)? And are you using the factory one, or did you replace the factory one with one designed specifically for the gauge?

It's possible you have air pockets floating around. As they pass the sender, the apparent temp changes.

The 'sender' (sensor) is the one supplied with the gauge itself and is secured in one of those attachments that go in the top radiator hose. My factory water temp gauge is still working.

I thought about air pockets, but the gauge was reading correctly (ruleing out faulty gauge/sensor) and showed no signs of 'jumping' around when I first installed it that may indicate there are air pockets. I shouldn't be getting a reading of 140 degrees C or more when the car is quite clearly around 80-90 degrees C either. So I'm kinda ruleing that one out.

If it keeps doing it, I will go over the wiring again, especially the 'sender' (sensor) wire, as the connection may have loosened itself while driving around and is not making correct contact all the time..... ??

Fixxxer

Check the earth side of the gauge as well.

If your factory gauge still works, that should mean the ECU temp input has been disabled. If you like running really rich because the ECU thinks the engine is still cold, then leave it as it is now.

Yepp, I'll check the earthing at the sender/sensor attachment, and the earthing at the gauge while I'm doing the check of the sensor/sender wire.

I'm not sure what you mean by the ECU temp input???? I haven't changed/modified/tapped in to anything that goes to the ECU or the factory temp gauge/factory wires/factory sender, it is as stock, as it left the factory in 1993.

The Saber Electrical water temp gauge and sender/sensor is a completely separate unit. The wires I tapped into were from the cigarette lighter (dimmer, 12v and ground).

Fixxxer

Sorry, misunderstood what you were saying. I thought you had replaced one of the factory senders. But it seems you've stuck some sort of adapter into the top radiator hose (by cutting the hose in two?).

Hey all,

I finally got around to installing my Saber water temp gauge (electrical) and using one of those water temp attachments that go in the top radiator hose.

The 'sender' (sensor) is the one supplied with the gauge itself and is secured in one of those attachments that go in the top radiator hose. My factory water temp gauge is still working.

ahahahah I'm starting to think blind_elk is actually some what blind!! :(

Sounds like air pockets to me also - exactly what my guage (autometer) was doing when i split the rear turbo water feed hose

meanwhile the factory guage was reading normal - cos they are crap

bleed the system again just to be sure

Found it (I hope). I pulled the ashtray out while I was driving home and everytime I slightly touched/moved the earth wire the needle on the gauge jumped around. I will look into it on the weekend if I get time, and make sure it is getting a good connection. I wish the wires going to the gauge were thicker though, they are a bugger to work with, which is probably why I'm having this problem.

I'll double check the other earth wire from the water temp sender, but I used good thick wire and connectors, and earthed it at the same spot as my (home job) earthing kit.

Thanks for all your help post people.

Fixxxer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...