Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

ive tried researching this & have searched various threads also. My R33 has quite hazy headlights which can be riden with various products such as Mother's Plastic Polish etc. Wat im wanting to do is remove the scratches on the lights, im wondering if anyone has used these novus products to do so?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NOVUS-Plastic-Polis...1QQcmdZViewItem

First two products seem theyd work a treat but i dont know about the third, mayb a lil too abrasive. I dun want to ruin my headlights cos a new pair wuld cost a bundle...thanx in advance! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201909-cleaning-r33-headlights/
Share on other sites

Personally, I just used some extra cut cream polish (for paint) and they came up pretty good. No need for these "plastic specific" polishes, all the same stuff i reckon, just re-packaged to jack up the price.

Personally, I just used some extra cut cream polish (for paint) and they came up pretty good. No need for these "plastic specific" polishes, all the same stuff i reckon, just re-packaged to jack up the price.

I agree. Mine were really bad when I got the car, my mechanic said to hit it with some 1200 wet/ dry, then cut and polish. They are as clear as glass now, looks so much better. I usually cut and polish them every few months as they start to go a bit cloudy again.

I've cut and polished mine - looks alot better than when the car first arrived... but it still has some yuckiness to it - it look as though its on the inside of the headlight... should I keep going with the cut and polish?

I've cut and polished mine - looks alot better than when the car first arrived... but it still has some yuckiness to it - it look as though its on the inside of the headlight... should I keep going with the cut and polish?

I'd say yes. I did mine about 10 times to start with, each time getting better and better until it was perfectly clear. When they are wet do they look good? Usually they do and that suggests that everything is on the outside. Might I add they didnt look too bad when I saw your car at Auto Perfection the other day, nice car. They didnt put a sticker on my car, did you get one?

I'd say yes. I did mine about 10 times to start with, each time getting better and better until it was perfectly clear. When they are wet do they look good? Usually they do and that suggests that everything is on the outside. Might I add they didnt look too bad when I saw your car at Auto Perfection the other day, nice car. They didnt put a sticker on my car, did you get one?

Not sure on the wet thing but probably take a look at it again later - can definitely see the yuckness in the sun.

And yeah I got a small sticker just underneath the rear windscreen wiper.

Hey all.....is it just the 33's that suffer from this or do the 32's & 34's have the same problem.....mine seem pretty clear.

I suppose it's a combination of fall out and UV that causes the problem?

They all do. My old 34 suffered as well, and fixed it with some plastic polish (and lots of scrubbing).

use Autosol metal polish. they come out fkn crystal clear!

Yeah I use something similar on the bike's stainless steel just before a show and you can't tell if it's stainless or chrome.

'Liquid Reflection' metal polish.

Il be giving that a go soon but any idea how to take the clear cover of the light so i change the chrome to black?

u gotta heat the plastic up and pry the cover off with a screwdriver, its sealed on with urethane :)

Damn those headlights were filthy!

thats actually what the lights look like after sanding them :(

the pic quality wasnt too good cos i used my phone cam

all we do at work when we get 2nd hand headlights and they are like that is just get cut n polish and scrub away and they look like new! we just use the normal cut n polish you use on the car paint. works fine

Before trying any expensive polish, try getting a rag/cloth and rubbing toothpaste onto the headlights. Its not perfect but I've found it does give quite good results. Just make sure not to get any on the paint!! This goes for any cut and polish as well. Normal polish is ok on paint but cut and polish will normally wreck your metallic/pearl paint.

Pretty sure all skylines have this problem with faded headlights. Stageas are the same too. :)

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...