Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i finally have 300 horsies running around in my engine bay!!! it was a fight getting them all in there and quite expensive but i made it...

now i need the oil cooler on and then time to hit oran park again!

to get these horsies in there i used:

HKS GT-RS turbo kit

Just Jap FMIC

Xforce 3'5" turboback exhaust

Apexi Power FC with Boost Control Kit

Apexi Power intake

Splitfire Coil Packs

forgot a couple of things:

Nismo 555cc injectors

boost is 1bar...

guys who r getting more for the same or similar setup... any tips for tuning or adjustment?

did you have to tighten the wastegate?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202004-300-ponies/
Share on other sites

if he is running 300rwhp with a gt-rs i would say he is running about 12-14psi. as they normally make 350rwhp @ 16psi (generally not always, depends on the condition of ur engine etc )

I'm on 255rwkw with the GT-RS @1.1 bar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202004-300-ponies/#findComment-3588648
Share on other sites

Is that 300rwhp or 300hp at the engine? i'm guessing if you say its in your engine bay then its at the engine? Because if thats the case it seems alittle low for a GT-RS on a rb25...i was just wondering and not having a go at you...

1 bar is just creeping up into that turbo's efficiency range...whack it up to 1.2-1.3 and she'll come alive...tightening the wastegate should not have an effect on peak power as you max boost should be controlled by the PFC boost controller...however...there should be enough preload on the actuator to hold the wastegate flap firmly shut...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202004-300-ponies/#findComment-3588948
Share on other sites

if he is running 300rwhp with a gt-rs i would say he is running about 12-14psi. as they normally make 350rwhp @ 16psi (generally not always, depends on the condition of ur engine etc )

im running 10.5 on low boost and have 320hp same turbo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202004-300-ponies/#findComment-3590852
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...