Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SOLD

PRICE DROP $21,000!!!

Make: Nissan

Model: Skyline R34 GT-T

Milage: 89,000km (genuine)

Transmission: Tiptronic w/MV Automatics shift kit

Colour: EV1 Lightning Yellow

Location: Sydney west

Complied? Yes

RWC supplied? -

Currently registered? Yes (October 2008)

Price: $21,000

Contact:

Email: [email protected]

Phone: (02) 9741 3916

Unfortunately, due to new circumstances, I am being forced to sell my beloved GT-T, which has been an ongoing project (‘Project Mello’) in both HPI and Hot4s Magazines.

The vehicle has been recently tuned by Just Engine Management for response at a very safe figure of 212rwkW, with later additional tuning for cruising and economy.

The car has been serviced regularly by Northern Beaches Performance.

Power: 212rwkW (tuned by JEM)

Engine hardware

– Haltech e11v2 engine-management system with 3bar MAP sensor and boost solenoid

– AVO Turboworld 400L ball-bearing turbocharger (less than 2000km) at 1bar

– Hi-Tech mandrel-bent 3in exhaust

– Hi-Tech split dump pipe

– High-flow cat

– Walbro high-flow in-tank fuel pump

– JJR oil catch can with K&N breather and Speedflow fittings

– Cooling Pro intercooler with Speedflow fittings on inlet and outlet to measure pressure drop

– Custom NBP carbon-fibre airbox

– A’PEXi pod air filter

– Radiator deflector panel

– Polished BOV pipe

– Polished factory BOV

– BOV blanking plate

– Rocker covers painted Lightning Yellow

– Nismo oil cap

– RaceSpec blue silicone vacuum lines

– Custom alloy section intake-pipe mod

– Blue silicone radiator hoses

Transmission

– MV Automatics shift kit

Braking

– DBA 4000 XS cross-drilled and slotted rotors front and rear

– Ferodo brake pads front and rear

– Master-cylinder brace

Suspension

– Bilstein shocks

– Lowered Whiteline springs rear

– Lowered K-Mac springs front

– K-Mac slide adjustable heavy-duty swaybar rear

– K-Mac adjustable heavy-duty swaybar front

Wheels and tyres

– Genuine Enkei RPF1 lightweight wheels (7kg each) in 18x8in front and 18x9in rear

– Nexen N3000 performance tyres (235/40 front, 265/35 rear)

– Gates wireless tyre-pressure monitoring system with in-cabin monitor

Exterior

– Blits ADR-approved vented fibreglass bonnet

– Clear side indicators

– Nismo clear front-bar indicators

– De-badged

– Numberplate box removed on front-bar and replaced with factory mesh

Interior

– Saber LED gauges x3 in factory tri-gauge binnacle (boost, transmission temperature and air/fuel ratio)

Stereo

– Alpine Type R 6.5in splits front

– Coustic two-channel amplifier

– Clarion MP3 head unit with multi-colour display

– Paging alarm system with additional two-point immobiliser (total three points immobilisation)

– All bulbs, including head-lights, parkers, numberplate, interior etc Polarg

Ultimately, there’s heaps of potential left in the car, especially with the current modifications, so I’d like a buyer who’s going to continue to build up it up. I’d also be happy to run updates in HPI if that’s the case.

Please, serious buyers only. Test drives strictly at my discretion.

Feel free to send any questions through to [email protected], or simply PM me.

gallery_26332_1100_14705.jpg

gallery_26332_1100_9323.jpg

gallery_26332_1100_6752.jpg

gallery_26332_1100_42830.jpg

gallery_26332_1100_3131.jpg

gallery_26332_1100_11524.jpg

gallery_26332_1100_1496.jpg

gallery_26332_1100_36206.jpg

Edited by oblivo

Loved following this project.. always a good source for when you're thinking "what should i do to my gtt next". Hope it goes to a great home mate... and hopefully it goes to someone on sau.

Out of interest, why are you looking at purchasing another auto (evo gta) when you are the editor of a magazine that revolves around absolute uncompromised performance on the circuit, drifting and to a lesser extent, drag?

Because it's my daily, it's a practicality issue. Sitting for two hours in Sydney peak on and off a triple-plate is just no fun. I'd love a weekend car, too, but funds just don't allow it. I'm also of the opinion that autos are just as good, if not better, at the strip as well. A well-sorted auto eliminates driver errror both on the street and strip.

The GT-A is just something that came to mind as a new project, but I'm open to suggestion. That said, this thread is solely for the sale of the R34. If you'd like to discuss the magazine, email me at [email protected]

People Jason does not actually want to swap at all. He needs the cash...he's saving to buy this...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/9-...95#entry3515395

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...