Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

that that looks like a bloody beast!

I like the colour, normally hate non standard colour DR's.

pity bout the front bar on it, i think it looks shit house compared to the standard RS-X one

Edited by benny_blanco
  • 4 weeks later...

ohhhh

price dropped to $12k!!! f*k me thats a steal.... you'd almost feel like you stole it if you bought it.

i have been in contact with sarah, the owner...

have now moved to the USA

there are recipts for over $32,000 in PARTS ALONE......(not including car, or labour and R&D)

a local workshop said it has potential to put at least 450kw at the rears, as if you would have traction though...

i wonder if i could chuck in a stocker and keep the FJ..... sell the dr and put the fj in my hatch!!!!

ahh to dream....

Now Im over the colour of this :P ... I think thats the biggest thing against the car on second thought, If the car looked original and had a good interior I reckon it would of sold by now.

12.000 is a good price for any DR30, I have looked at thrashed and rusted out cops for that price :)

  • 1 month later...

Ahh thats sweet good to hear! will be a mass sleeper to all those not in the know,

If you want the side stickers done give me a PM and I will find the guys email who did mine.

O and please get a stock front bar, that modded ones bothers me :devil:

Yer white over black!! Do it!! Just be careful with the black though, its not a flat black i beleive its got a blue pearl through it!

Glenn who did your stickers? Did Crimmo do them before he sold you the car???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Incidentally, I also put v3 of the tune on the car and did an oil change from 5w20 to 5w40 to see how it affected oil pressure in the mid to high end. I'm still happier with the thicker oil and will stick with it, but clearly the system is happy with 55psi even if I'm not!
    • So the other thing I got sorted over the weekend was Z1 oil catch can install. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-baffled-oil-catch-can-kit-p-23546.html It was a good kit, most importantly it came with preformed silicone hoses in the right shapes rather than trying to bend/join regular straight rubber hose. It did come with crappy spring clamps not proper hose clamps so I ditched them On the down side, it is made for LHD cars and RHD cars have the main ECU harness running straight through that location, I ended up bending 2 mounting brackets so the loom is up against the brake master cylinder compartment wall to make room for it....otherwise everything fit without modification Intercoolers off on both sides, but there was enough room to get everything done without disconnecting (and therefore having to re-bleed) the coolant lines. Each is mounted with 4x 12mm headed bolts, plus in and out side hose clamps (7mm headed, nice) and 3 electrical connectors on the navigator's side which were a real pain to undo (probably for the first time in 13 years).   Also one of the mounting bolts on the driver's side was cross threaded, thanks Infiniti/Nissan workshop mechanics. On the navigator's side, the catch can plumbs into the factory hose that goes from the cam cover PCV back to the intake.  This is the 2 new hoses in place. All simples and direct fit On driver's side, there is a bracket provided that mounts to the throttle body, they even provide slightly longer bolts to allow for the bracket thickness which is nice (although, they don't have captive washers like the factory bolts of course) In that pic the main loom brackets are not in place, once I had "adjusted" them across it now sits up against the panel and just clears the OCC The remaining problem with this is emptying it; currently you have to remove the 3x m4 bolts that hold it to the bracket and both banjos to remove it (probably dropping the banjo washers at the same time) pull it apart to empty then replace. I do have some fittings coming for a remote drain from underneath that will also add a little capacity...it is very small and will need to be emptied every oil change to be sure.
    • Noise sounds to me could be either wheel bearing related (have had similar from bearings going) or that tail shaft is still loose. Or something like a heat shield touching the tail shaft.
    • You wouldn't get away with saying the opposite, if you were there.
    • Do some wool fluff testing on the vents
×
×
  • Create New...