Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people, well I am in the process of stocking my car out and I realised that when I moved accross, somehow the stock lines didnt make their way here and I have since called up back home and they cant be found.

I am seriously desperate for these lines so if there is anybody out there whoe could help me it would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202183-please-help-meeee/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I actually only need the water feed now (one that runs from the plenum around the back of the block) and an rb25 actuator, if you could help I would be VERY appreciative.

PS saw the car in your sig on wellington in the sighns place

Cheers

Ryan

awesome, that would be much appreciated mate, ill swing you a little bit of coin for your troubles, its such a pain getting all the little bits an pieces taking a car back to stock

yeah the car looked mean, at first glance i thought it was a gtr

Sorry to jump in on your thread but I also need the oil flanges for a R33 turbo (changing from a VLT unit). From the looks of it, the banjo bolts will go across but the 2 bolt flanges won't.

I also have a RB25 actuator, with bracket, sitting in my garage.

Cheers, Greg.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...