Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone confirm the correct grease to use on the whiteline bush kits from Sydneykids group buy?

The little satchels of grease supplied should be enough for installing but as the front camber kits have grease nipples

I would like to make sure I use the right grease there.

Sure I read on here somewhere castrol LM just wanted to confirm it

cheers

Edited by noone
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202194-grease-for-whiteline-bushs/
Share on other sites

You can use almost any grease, it's not so critical. But generaly the better grease to use is that used in boat trailer wheel bearings. This application will be listed on the container, and its good stuff as its water proof.

Thanks for that SK kit looks good and I am looking forward to getting back on the track and improving the lap times

though the rear HICAS tierod looks a bit dodgy so might have to try an change that out to

Was curious a to whether i can just unbolt the driveshaft and arms etc an remove the hub to press it out or will I have to replace seals in the cv joint or balljoints

as well if I can split the lower ball joint and hub without damaging the boot etc I think its doable

will be giving it a go thursday any advice much appreciated at this point

Thanks for that SK kit looks good and I am looking forward to getting back on the track and improving the lap times

though the rear HICAS tierod looks a bit dodgy so might have to try an change that out to

Was curious a to whether i can just unbolt the driveshaft and arms etc an remove the hub to press it out or will I have to replace seals in the cv joint or balljoints

as well if I can split the lower ball joint and hub without damaging the boot etc I think its doable

will be giving it a go thursday any advice much appreciated at this point

I am not sure that I understand the question, so I appologise in advance if the following doesn't answer it.

It is not necessary to remove the upright/hub from the car to replace a rear steering arm ball joint. Simply undo the locking nut on the inner joint of the rear steering arm. Then use a ball joint splitter to separate the rear steering tie rod from the upright/hub. Simply unscrew the ball joint fro mthe steering arm. Reverse process with replacement ball joint.

Cheers

Gary

Cheers mate thinking you are referring to the ball joint at the inner, where it attach's to the HICAS lock bar yeah?

My problem is the one that Is pressed (?)into the hub itself, there is movement there

the inner (the part that screws into the lock bar) seems nice an tight.

I will have a chance to check it out better this arvo

unfortunately need the car drivable next week for dynoing, so final alignment issue's may have to be dealt with after that

was just keen to get a workable alignment so wasnt to much of a handful when on the dyno

cheers anyway

Edited by noone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...