Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's sux...what am I going to do with the boost controller then!!!...lol.

P.S. How sure are u that it is ceramic turbo? I have my doubts!...will let you know soon though as I am pulling it out to get high flowed and steel impellers(I think). New dump pipe and new high flow cat is also going in.

I've been lead to believe they're ceramics from reading it here somewhere. I know there's a guy who pulled his turbo out, i'll find that post.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This thread, MX? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M3...cs-t192998.html

It's from Stag250, and he states that he believes the turbo IS the same as the RB25 units in s1 and s2 C34's.

This thread, MX? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M3...cs-t192998.html

It's from Stag250, and he states that he believes the turbo IS the same as the RB25 units in s1 and s2 C34's.

Yes that's the one. I was hoping he would mention something about the unit before it got reconditioned.

This thread, MX? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M3...cs-t192998.html

It's from Stag250, and he states that he believes the turbo IS the same as the RB25 units in s1 and s2 C34's.

If it's the same as the RB25 turbo units in the S1 & S2 should I not have bit's of ceramic spitting through the exhaust....hope not...lol :0

Mine's at 1.09bar(15.5psi)....and my turbo is standard(I think!). What were the RB25's good for?

Edited by Jetwreck
it was a ceramic unit and it is now steel correct

Don't know what mine is! Pretty sure it's whatever comes standard. Before you reco's yours STAG250, was it definatly 100% ceramic?

yeah 16psi will well and truely kill a ceramic turb. 12psi is about as high as you can go safe.

and now I know how you were keeping up :cheers:

Then I cannot have the same turbo's as the RB25's....hmmmm...more research needed.

P.S. Been waiting all week for a special letter from the RTA on that keeping up thing.....never came...phew!!!

Don't know what mine is! Pretty sure it's whatever comes standard. Before you reco's yours STAG250, was it definatly 100% ceramic?

well the moving parts were but I confess I didn't see it myself out before it was recon'd but merely repeat what I was told by the recon guy and the mechanic

  • 4 months later...

I just fitted a boost gauge to a stock standard ARX and the boost maxed out at 15psi and settles back to 14 psi under full load.

I think we need to find out what our turbo's of made of because if they are the same ceramic turbo as used in the older model stagea with the NEO motor the turbo may not last that long.

The part number for the the turbo fitted to my car is. 14411-AQ800-. Any one know how to find out what sort of turbo this is and what/ how it is built?

Cheers

Andy

Edited by andy65b
I just fitted a boost gauge to a stock standard ARX and the boost maxed out at 15psi and settles back to 14 psi under full load.

I think we need to find out what our turbo's of made of because if they are the same ceramic turbo as used in the older model stagea with the NEO motor the turbo may not last that long.

The part number for the the turbo fitted to my car is. 14411-AQ800-. Any one know how to find out what sort of turbo this is and what/ how it is built?

Cheers

Andy

Hey guys. Just got my car back on Friday night from the Shop.

Hi-Flowed turbo... The stock one is DEFINATELY ceramic (I saw the bits).

The receipt I have states that the Hi-Flow turbo uses a Garrett T3 core.

The stock boost for my car was around 7-8psi so I am let to believe. It has been set at 10psi and the boost controller has been disconnected to keep it there until I get my exhaust as I still have a fair amount of restriction there.

As an aside, it makes 140awkw.

I have found that it behaves a bit more like a NA engine now and is much quieter (do you guys find your turbos to be rather loud?).

Interestingly instead of light boost at 2500 rpm & full boost at 3200 until it tapered off at around 5000rpm, it now starts spooling at 2k and is still going strong at 6500!

Cannot wait to get that exhaust.... although I feel a saga comming on....

not sure what is going on with these boost numbers. Mine is absolutley stock and is definatley hitting 15-14psi. So why are they telling you 8psi?

We definatley need more info on the turbo's!

not sure what is going on with these boost numbers. Mine is absolutley stock and is definatley hitting 15-14psi. So why are they telling you 8psi?

We definatley need more info on the turbo's!

The previous shop I took it to put it on the Dyno which showed 8psi stock... although that was the same day as the infamous 0.6psi (not a typo).

The shop that did the hiflow did not dyno it before hand. Makes me think that it would be quite safe running 15psi with steel internals then, no?

The previous shop I took it to put it on the Dyno which showed 8psi stock... although that was the same day as the infamous 0.6psi (not a typo).

The shop that did the hiflow did not dyno it before hand. Makes me think that it would be quite safe running 15psi with steel internals then, no?

I spoke to Ben at North Shore Prestige Motors today and he said standard boost is 0.8bar (11.6 psi).

I am getting 14psi (0.965bar) at max throttle. (with an absolute peak of 15psi)

He also said the turbo is quite unique and nit eaisly replaced. I ame getting some more details later this week. He did say that the turbo is quite different to the turbo on the older stagea's.

Cheers

Andy

I spoke to Ben at North Shore Prestige Motors today and he said standard boost is 0.8bar (11.6 psi).

I am getting 14psi (0.965bar) at max throttle. (with an absolute peak of 15psi)

He also said the turbo is quite unique and nit eaisly replaced. I ame getting some more details later this week. He did say that the turbo is quite different to the turbo on the older stagea's.

Cheers

Andy

It is the housing & flange that is VERY different. The internals are rather similar to the RB25 turbo but certainly not the same.

is it a T3 flange??

Just going by what I have been told by a couple of shops that have hi-flowed m35 turbos...

The housing & flange are different (both shops said that they would "not want to break it" as they don't know where they would get another - neither had seen t before) but the T3 internals were used to hi-flow mine.

Take from that what you will.... :)

  • 3 weeks later...
holy shit! thats not really a good sign lol

maybe there are some SS manifolds around that change the flange to T3 or something, easier for upgrades

I don't know what a "normal" turbo outlet is but this is what the vq25det turbo outlet looks like...

post-31842-1217212807_thumb.jpg

post-31842-1217212931_thumb.jpg

Edited by iamhe77

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
    • What do you mean by "seals"? Internal hydraulic seals (ie, is it leaking PS fluid?) or the rack boots that close the rack onto the tie-rods? Because the former is a rebuild, and the latter is trivial that you or any nearby mechanic could do. Dunno about the cowl. Just buy what you think is required and get anything else you find/break afterwards. Wing? Dunno. Don't like R33s enough to pay attention to them. Mirror glass is just glass (on the surface that you want to polish). Go for it.
    • Hello! Long time lurker, been using the forums to address concerns and questions from afar for a while but I've struggled to find some answers so I guess its about time I made an account and formally asked some more knowledgeable people, since finding local skyline owners is hard (and shops that are knowledgeable or trustworthy to work on 'rare' cars are non existent out where im at, as skylines are quite uncommon to find in the wild around here). So the main 3 questions I have, 1: Steering rack has blown seals, well.. they kind of hold but they are not sealed properly anymore and as my R33 is my DD, i cant exactly rip the rack out and send it off or attempt to fix myself. As most refurb ones are around $1,100 or more shipped, and I have other things I need to work on around the car, I was seeking clarification on whether an S15 rack will more or less bolt right in, and whether a common mechanic could do any other required work to get it to fit. I ask, as I've found a supplier than can sell a manufactured as oem one for around 400, if not I'll likely order a used one from Jacks JDM, and take a risk on the seals there. The second question i have is that im replacing the front wiper cowl and have planned to buy 4 new clips and a new center clip but wasnt sure if there were any other clips that would also need to get replaced while I was at it. Given im sure any that are there now will simply break when I remove the old cowl... Last thing would be a fairly straight forward question, i think. If I manage (strong if, finding one has proven to be a pain) to find a R33 GTR spoiler/wing will it require much modification to bolt to a S2 R33 GTST? I've read the bolt patterns dont match but otherwise would bolt in, only options I have found with much luck is China stuff on ebay and carbonetics, which has a nice $650 shipping fee... so if anyone has any pointers where a US chap could locate one that would be great Random side question as well, the mirrors as I understand are mirror glass, and as im planning to polish my windows from water spots and surface scratches, i was hopeful cerium oxide would be fine for them too, as my research points to, but clarification is always nice. Any pointers would be appreciated, and while I have scoured the internet for answers if I missed a prior post somewhere that may answer these directly please point me towards it, as i must have simply missed it. I have seen a post here or there that has mentioned it, but I usually get 50-50 answers, or half answers... I dont have a lot of fab experience or mechanic experience, outside of hydraulic and pneumatic stuff I did in the military and with how hard it is to source stuff in the US, id rather not wing it and hemmoraghe money lol. Thanks guys! Sorry for the monumental first post haha
    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
×
×
  • Create New...