Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

New rad and thermos:

P9200003.jpg

P9200001.jpg

The bloody thing is tiny and as light as a feather, I'd never realised.

So tomorrow they'll go in tomorrow along with the thicker front swaybar, new bushes, new seatbelts, new guard liner and new battery tray that I've been meaning to install for ages. It'll almost feel like a new car :)

As they say, problems don't rain - they pour. So the radiator I bought above is unusable. I had noticed a big crack on the top inlet where the hose would go. I've been told it's a common problem that the plastic goes brittle and breaks there. So unfortunately that radiator is a dud. My mechanic has ordered a new radiator - so now as I have to get a new radiator I have gone bigger - 26mm. We'll see how it goes for clearance.

While replacing the guard liner they noticed that the driver's side CV boot is split...so now I'm replacing the driver's side CV joint as well. To top it all off the SSS seatbelts I bought earlier in the year don't fit because Nissan are dickheads and somewhere along the line changed the clip system that hold the seatbelts steady between the pillar and the trim. Why must you mock me?!

I'll get the car back tomorrow (replacing the brake fluid as it's overdue), it's back to the panelbeater for a few touch-ups and it'll be back on the road. Or that's the plan :lol:

  • 4 months later...

Well as most Melbourne members know I gave the Pulsar trans it's last rights at November DECA last year.

Now with rear-mounted gearbox!

IMG_0328.jpg

In all seriousness, today was a sad day and the end of an era. I started the car for the first time in close to 4 months. She started as though I had never left her, the auto worked as though it was never broken. After being auto for her 12 year life I think she's a bit sad about letting go. But it's for the best, I know it won't last forever.

And an update for the Skyline;

The '34 got some relatively inexpensive but very effective neatening up yesterday. The door pillars were wrapped in some cheap, shitty 'carbon-fibre look' vinyl by the previous owner which looked tacky and had started to come off. The strips on the rear door were also faded. So 4.5 hours (yes, it took that long to get it perfect!) from a very patient and lovely SAU member and this is the result:

Before:

IMG_0320.jpg

IMG_0321.jpg

Comparison:

IMG_0323.jpg

After:

IMG_0326.jpg

IMG_0325.jpg

It's 3M carbon fibre look vinyl. This stuff it incredible, it's the most expensive on the market and there's a very good reason for that - it looks and feels exactly like the real thing. Very happy with the result.

  • 3 weeks later...

The LSD was about 3 weeks late, but that serves me right for getting it as cheaply as I could. Behold, a box of Nismo:

P2160001.jpg

P2160003.jpg

P2160004.jpg

P2160005.jpg

I like opening things :D

Gearbox and LSD go on a holiday to Sydney tomorrow.

Gearbox and LSD sent to Syd, air-con gear out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...-S-t308657.html

And a shiteload of progress it would seem. Went to have a look at my car to find it Flintstones spec. Some dodgy iPhone pics tell the story:

IMG_0341.jpg

IMG_0339.jpg

IMG_0338.jpg

IMG_0347.jpg

It's guts on the floor (plenty more not pictured):

IMG_0343.jpg

Photo of auto mounts for future reference:

IMG_0348.jpg

IMG_0345.jpg

As you can see the car's now sans air-con, transmission, transmission coolers and everything in the way that had to come out to get to it all. Brake pedal is mounted but not much else can happen until the gearbox arrives back. In the meantime my mechanic is cringing at working out the hydraulic conversion, but I have faith in him :( The idea of using one of my trans coolers as a power steering cooler isn't going to work, it's just too small.

And the reason it was clunking on take-off recently, there was one bolt left holding the auto trans in. OMFG!

  • 2 weeks later...

Not that anyone's reading, but;

More progress.

Gearbox is apart and the reports are that it's in pretty bloody good condition. It looks like it's never been opened (factory Nissan goo inside) and everything looked great. Surprising - it's a 19 year, 190,000km old box! Even the standard, original flywheel looked excellent but will be getting machined. Although, so I don't have to touch the box for a very long time I've told him to replace all synchro's and bearings with any sort of wear whatsoever. The last thing I want to do is cheap out on something only to have it need replacing a year down the track.

It would've been back but PAR had run out the 4.07 ratio final drive, only had the 4.43 and a 3.something, neither of which I wanted. They're arriving on Thursday so it should be finished and together on Thursday night and to my mechanics door on Friday.

I'll miss my motorkhana and track day I had planned this month, but that's probably for the best. The car needs a tune and I need to learn how to drive it haha

Nearly there.

The Skyline felt left out that the Pulsar was getting all the attention at the moment, so it decided that the front tie road ends were very worn and needed replacement while the car was getting serviced today. Not cheap!!! But fortunately readily available.

Car now has new front tie rod ends and every single fluid replaced. And for once it drives in a straight line. All along the car's steering has been knocking on deviations in the road and turning slowly, and always pulled left even after wheel alignments. Annoyed that it took my mechanic to pick this up at a service and various wheel alignment shops didn't spot this as the reason.

Haha, yep, plenty more updates to come in the next few weeks. The LSD should limit some of the torque steer, but that's what makes it fun to drive. No need for a steering wheel when you can change lanes with throttle haha

Small amount of progress. The hydraulic gear is mounted to the gearbox and the flywheel is machined. My workshop have been super busy so I haven't been putting them under pressure to finish it. At this stage I'd expect the car to be completed late next week all going well :banana:

  • 2 weeks later...

Okay, so it's nearly done. There's a few very small things I am missing, please see if you can help:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wt...nd-t313577.html

Gearbox is in the car, solid engine mounts and brackets all fitted well and installed, most of the front end is back in. The only small hiccups are that the cold-side cooler pipe to the throttle body might need slight modifications to clear the hydraulic slave cylinder on the gearbox. Otherwise everything fitted up just fine, I'm very surprised. Still to do - mount clutch pedal and drill holes in the firewall, and install the bits I'm chasing in the thread I've linked to.

  • 2 weeks later...

So so so so close.

Pedals are all mounted, shifter & linkages are in, engine bays entirely back together, master cylinder is mounted. What has caught me by surprise is that I need a new front pipe (dump pipe to cat.) It seems when they made my 3" exhaust when the car was auto it was made to sit a lot closer to the body, now the shifter linkages are in the way. Getting the mechanics to organise the exhaust with their local exhaust guy so they can drive it down. It'll be a very noisy and defectable drive to the exhaust shop with no exhaust :lol: Hoping to have room to add a flex on that pipe before the cat because it's never had a flex and it really needs one. Perfect opportunity/excuse.

Only things really left to do are to source the pin for between the clutch pedal and master cylinder from a wrecker on the weekend, run the hard lines, fill the gearbox with fluid, put the interior back together, service the car, exhaust then when everything is worn in nicely onto the dyno for a much needed tune.

photo2-1.jpg

photo1-1.jpg

I got the car back tonight, it drove fantastically for 1 hour. Until it decided it wanted a new friend.

Hello Mt Tow Truck. Mr Tow Truck also brought a friend, Mr Lift Kit:

IMG_0402.jpg

IMG_0406.jpg

IMG_0407.jpg

IMG_0410.jpg

And back I where it picked it up a few hours prior.

IMG_0412.jpg

So what's wrong? It's physically stuck in gear and the drive wheels don't move. I had to remove the lip so that we could get the hydraulic arms under around the front wheels and lift it. Towed with the back wheels on the ground. There was no way of getting it onto the tray, you can't even physically pull or push it. It was stuck next to a busy highway literally 30cm off the road for about 1.5 hours, I was just waiting for someone to hit me. It doesn't go into neutral or into any other gear aside from 5th. It's not the clutch, that works fine. There was no grinding, my other half went to go back into 4th and there was nothing, the gearstick does move into the neutral but doesn't wiggle at all and isn't physically in neutral, it's in still in 5th.

I'm not learning to drive it this weekend...

Anyway, I went to have a look at it in daylight, still stuck in 5th and the shifter won't budge. I re-installed the lip because it looked ghetto, and took some photos of my Skyline next to it seeing as though it's not moving anywhere and I wanted to do something with it. They've never been next to each other so there's a first for everything.

No lip:

P4170019.jpg

P4170020.jpg

P4170021.jpg

(excuse how dirty the car is, hasn't been washed for 6 months!)

Lip back on:

P4170022.jpg

P4170023.jpg

The important bits:

P4170029.jpg

P4170033.jpg

P4170034.jpg

P4170035.jpg

P4170037.jpg

P4170038.jpg

P4170041.jpg

P4170042.jpg

P4170039.jpg

Now the wait to find out what's wrong next week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...