Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

good luck !

Up date after the races

The car having some boost isues, could not get over 20psi. I think its the cheap Ebay waste gate, but on 20psi I was able to run 7.1sec in the 1/8. Best 60ft the car had for the day was 1.50 sec. Then "Bang", i broke the outer CV joint in the rear. The car is HOOKING!!!!

So i now have to resolve my boost issues and change the CV joint. I will look into some performance ones.

Up date after the races

The car having some boost isues, could not get over 20psi. I think its the cheap Ebay waste gate, but on 20psi I was able to run 7.1sec in the 1/8. Best 60ft the car had for the day was 1.50 sec. Then "Bang", i broke the outer CV joint in the rear. The car is HOOKING!!!!

So i now have to resolve my boost issues and change the CV joint. I will look into some performance ones.

what you can do is get a gtr rear end, strip all the arms, diff, cv's and bolt that to the existing cradle in your car now.... you will need a custom tailshaft

the diffs are mechanical, also are a 4.11 ratio, the cv's are a shitload thicker and stronger, this is what i have in my rb26 powered s15, yet to test but ive had the cradles side by side and the difference in everything you will swap over is heaps better that the s14 stuff...

waldoforce You don't have gtr diff+axles+hubs? Was a miracle that you run with gts-t or silvia rear end!!!

I have gtr diff,axles,hubs and the center shaft!!

You need hubs because gtr axles are thicker!!

You run only 1/8? Not 1/4?

Any issues with gearbox?

Your twin plate work good?

Fotos? Videos? :P

1.5 is very good :(:)

I have Mickey Thompson 26x11.5x15 in 8" Weld Drag lites wheels!

What rear shocks you have? Do you have any aftermarket links on the rear? Bushing?

Do you have skinny front? I have 18" front for the time with 8piston D2 brakes :wub: I don't know what to put there..

waldoforce You don't have gtr diff+axles+hubs? Was a miracle that you run with gts-t or silvia rear end!!!

I have gtr diff,axles,hubs and the center shaft!!

You need hubs because gtr axles are thicker!!

You run only 1/8? Not 1/4?

Any issues with gearbox?

Your twin plate work good?

Fotos? Videos? :P

1.5 is very good :(:)

I have Mickey Thompson 26x11.5x15 in 8" Weld Drag lites wheels!

What rear shocks you have? Do you have any aftermarket links on the rear? Bushing?

Do you have skinny front? I have 18" front for the time with 8piston D2 brakes :wub: I don't know what to put there..

enjoy! Oh take some time and look the time slip in the vid. Thanks

I have R33 GTST diff, axles, the whole rear sub frame.

I will look into the GTR axles and hub, thanks.

No issues with the gearbox as yet and the twin disk clutch is still holding.

The red 180sx in the vid is using almost the same tires that you have (26*11.5*16 ET Street drag) , but he has them on the twin turboZX 8.5" rims. I am using MT 26*10*15 on 10" weld rims.

In the rear I am using stock S14 shocks, with lowered skyline springs.

Yes I do have adjustable aftermarket links in the rear, with polyurethene bushing in the spindles. I also have a set of aluminum rear subframe spacers

No i dont have skinnies up front. I have 18"s awell with the factory skyline brakes and rotors all round. You will be fine with them. I have seen many 10sec cars without skinnies up front.

what you can do is get a gtr rear end, strip all the arms, diff, cv's and bolt that to the existing cradle in your car now.... you will need a custom tailshaft

the diffs are mechanical, also are a 4.11 ratio, the cv's are a shitload thicker and stronger, this is what i have in my rb26 powered s15, yet to test but ive had the cradles side by side and the difference in everything you will swap over is heaps better that the s14 stuff...

Thanks, I will definitly look into this. I need something that can handle my hard launches.

Thanks again

1.506!!! Very very good ;)

But 7.1 isn't :dry::( 600whp s14 must do something like 6.5!! Try more when you fix your boost problems ;)

My tires are better than your friend's... I have 15" so quite more sidewall!! My tires is et street drag too.

Don't forget that your need also gtr hubs.

What times did your friend and what horsepower he has?

I will put also a line lock for easy burnouts!! :D

My target is to do very low 10sec in the 1/4 drag races!!

We have a race at 13 September and I hope to have my car ready to race :)

1.506!!! Very very good ;)

But 7.1 isn't :(:) 600whp s14 must do something like 6.5!! Try more when you fix your boost problems ;)

My tires are better than your friend's... I have 15" so quite more sidewall!! My tires is et street drag too.

Don't forget that your need also gtr hubs.

What times did your friend and what horsepower he has?

I will put also a line lock for easy burnouts!! :D

My target is to do very low 10sec in the 1/4 drag races!!

We have a race at 13 September and I hope to have my car ready to race ;)

Thanks for the heads up on the GTR hubs.

My friend makes about 480whp and his best time to date is 7.1sec in the 1/8th.

You are right, at 600whp I should be able to do 6.5-6.7sec, but I am not the best of drivers :dry: . We have an event at the end of this month. I will have the car ready for that.

  • 2 months later...

The car finished!

We had a problem with the wastegate.. the valve was all the time semi-open and we didn't undestand it.

With stock ecu and mafs was a pain. The car was very unfriendly and difficult to drive but maybe the problem was the semi-open wastegate.

We did 11.7 with 1.3bar only and the clutch slipping a lot!! But I wasn't sure that it was slipping...! Ah and 1,565 60foots!!! And without launch control!!!

So we take the desicion to put an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro! And we check the wastegate if was good and we saw the problem.

So when we put the power fc the car was like a stock car!! Very friendly!! Still with base stock map(ofcourse only for vacuum driving)!!! I was so happy when I put the power fc but as I said maybe the problem was the wastegate. We burn two z32 mafs while we tried to finish the car with stock ecu so I am very happy now with the maps and I have cool engine bay!!

We was on the dyno.. at 16psi 540flywheel hp with 8500rpm limit and the clutch slipping a lot!!! The afr was 11.0!

So we leave it there... with 2.2sec 60foots and with 16psi boost and with this bad clutch the car did 12.5 in my second drag race! I go for race only for fun as I had slipping clutch.

I put also Splitfires just to be sure.. Gizzmo launch control system with tach recall shift light.. Denso Iridium IK24 plugs..

When I will buy an overhaul kit for my OsGiken Twin plate I will go again on the dyno. Maybe with IQ27 if I will have money :cheers:

Also I use 100octane pump fuel. But I am thinking to add 1/5 Vp Import for my high boost runs. How much high? I don't know yet :D

Edited by GreeceS13
any update ?

Thanks everyone for the info on the GTR axles and hub, they work like a dream. I am now hitting 1.4s 60 foots, best to date is 1.47sec. Also, I have been able to get the boost up. I am pleagued with a faulty waste gate, but was able run 26psi. The car did 7.003sec in the 1/8 on a test and tune night with minimal track prep. We have an event today. I will keep you all updated.

Hey waldoforce,

can you post up some pics of your s14, are you also able to post some spec's on turbo, cams, pistons?

cheers

dan

The turbo is a garrett T04z with a 70ar back housing. The motor has factory pistons, and I am using Tomie pon cams 260 degree.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
    • I’ll have more of a look into Recaros over the weekend. It’s taken me 2 days to figure out which Bride seats suit my application haha.
    • I am aware of their presence, but the product page looked like that conversion will eliminate the AWD capability. Fact remains it's kind of a hassle to send my oil sump halfway around the world and buying an extra one is expensive and unnecessary. Before I go hat route I'd explore more local options.    Would you recommend I just pull the engine and renew as many things as possible since I'm already having problems with some leaks? Would have to get an engine crane first though.
    • Are there any indicators that the vehicle is in limp mode?  Any dash light, or something.  Or is it just lack of acceleration?
×
×
  • Create New...