Running My 3037 With The Stock Ecu

[nizmo_freek]

Basically my stock turbo shat itself last week, blew an oil seal or something as the car was puffing out tons of smoke, removed inlet piping and found oil everywere, this happened the day after i receive my hks 3037 pro s turbo kit , so took everything off and am fitting the new turbo right now to see if it it does fix the problem.

I still dont have aftermarket injectors or a z32 afm, and i dont want to waste $900 for a tune with the stock injectors and afm if im just going to have to go back for a retune in the near future with the new inj and afm.

The question is am i able to run the 3037 with the stock ecu for now, i was under the impression that it would just hit the airflow cut very early in the rev range and run very rich overall, do you think it would be safe to use the stock ecu for say a couple of weeks/months untill i get a tune?

Edited January 21, 2008 by nizmo_freek

[STATUS]

it will run but dont expect it to run sweet though, good enough to just daisy it around. remmeber it will still run good enough to turn it self inside out.

[RB30-POWER]

yeah, just run as low as boost as you can until you get other upgrades.

its difficult to damage the engine if you have a standard ecu, it will just retard timing and run rich before it makes enough power for it to pop!

i would still be careful but.

[discopotato03]

There is no possible way to answer that one , it would all depend on how you drove it . Can you be certain that you wouldn't give it a bootfull and not hear it pinging ?

To be as safe as possible I suppose you could disconnect the waste gates actuator arm from the gates linkage or just remove the actuator completly . If the gate blows open as it will if theres nothing to stop it the turbo shouldn't boost at all you'd think .

Ideally your next purchase be needs to be a PFC because there's no reason why it couldn't run your engine with the 3037 Pro S . You would have enough scope to make it fuel cut if it over boosted and retard the ignition if it detonated .

If you ask nicely a few people here may be able to give you maps to make it run acceptably before the Z32 and larger injectors are fitted .

Too late now I know but I generally suggest people make the turbo the last upgrade after PFC/pump/injectors etc .

I believe most of the fun is learning how to make it go along the way . Doing it like this also means that you can make the mods go only as far as you need to get the required results .

My 2c spent , cheers A .

[nizmo_freek]

I have all the supporting mods apart from the injectors and afm, i have a pfc and pfc boost controll kit sitting in my closet (has been sitting there for over a year) lol, the thing is i really would like to get it tuned right now even with just the stock afm and inj just to make sure its safe, its $900 for a tune, i just dont want to have to go back again after i have fitted the new inj and afm and pay another $600+ for a retune, if my stock turbo hadnt died i would have waited and done everything at once, but thats life i guess, things happen.

Edited January 21, 2008 by nizmo_freek

[Bliksem]

If you dont boost it that should eliminate most, if not all possibility of it leaning out so should be fine I would "think"

[PM-R33]

As long as it doesnt lean out and it isnt running huge amounts of boost it should be fine. Mine's been running on a stock ECU for a while now and no sign of any damage, not saying its a good idea but at least it shouldnt go bang too quickly.

[R31Nismoid]

Upto 2500-3000rpm will be fine

Much more than that and its really just too risky to say... i dont think anyone would want to try it

[paulr33]

wire open the wastegate so it doesnt go into positive pressure or very little boost

[PM-R33]

Pedro runs a 3037 on his stock ECU on his R34 and its fine, hits airflow cut every now and then but its all good.

The stock ECU will protect the engine as long as you dont run out of fuel or if it doesnt hit some massive amount of boost.

[discopotato03]

Well I think its high time the PFC and boost kit went in . LOL I can already HEAR Gary laughing at me but I promise fitting the PFC doesn't hurt a bit . A couple of screws , 1 bolt and in she plugs . Its very simple to fit the boost control kit with the hardest bit slitting the gromet to get its loom through to the computer . I followed someone elses idea and cable tied the map sensor to the std boost gauge sensors bracket . T'd into its vac line . I think the solenoid may be cable tied to the std ones bracket as well - can't remember .

Since you are in the land of the flightless bird I suggest you get the datalogit kit and use it to tune the thing . I also strongly suggest you get some form of wide band 02 sensing devise like a Tech Edge so you know whats going on . It used to be possible to get those in electronic kit form and build them yourself .

I think you need to do some sums and work out what the gear costs and think about doing some of the tuning yourself .

This is what I intended to do before the daily driver turned into a project as well ...

Cheers A .

[SKYPER]

My advice would be to dyno the car and see at which boost level

gives a safe A/F ratio when reaches near to boost at lower rpm's

and at higher rpm's where turbo reaches full boost. It's better to

pay $80-$100 to find a safe boost level than $2000+ for a new

motor.

With intercooler, dumppipe, bigger turbo upgrade it probably will

require a low boost level for a safe A/F ratio.

Maybe even invest in an adjustable HKS or Garrett actuator

and adjust actuator arm, so the wastegate on back of turbo

opens more, to help to lower the boost level.

Or even fit a hose to actuator bulb with a GTR or S15 stock

boost restrictor, which should help to drop the boost level.

Edited January 22, 2008 by SKYPER

[nizmo_freek]

I think i will just drive it around very quietly on the stock ecu for a few weeks untill i can get it tuned, hopefully the car will be running tomorow, just waiting for an exhaust mani gasket then can bolt it all back together.

Also another question which is kind of urgent, how do i disconnect the stock boost control solenoid, if i just unplugg it will it afect anything else, im guessing it will be fine to just unplug it? or should i just keep it plugged in and earth it but dont have it hooked up to anything (will be having the wastegate connected straight to the intercooler pipe.

Cheers for all the help!!

[nizmo_freek]

Well I think its high time the PFC and boost kit went in . LOL I can already HEAR Gary laughing at me but I promise fitting the PFC doesn't hurt a bit . A couple of screws , 1 bolt and in she plugs . Its very simple to fit the boost control kit with the hardest bit slitting the gromet to get its loom through to the computer . I followed someone elses idea and cable tied the map sensor to the std boost gauge sensors bracket . T'd into its vac line . I think the solenoid may be cable tied to the std ones bracket as well - can't remember .

Since you are in the land of the flightless bird I suggest you get the datalogit kit and use it to tune the thing . I also strongly suggest you get some form of wide band 02 sensing devise like a Tech Edge so you know whats going on . It used to be possible to get those in electronic kit form and build them yourself .

I think you need to do some sums and work out what the gear costs and think about doing some of the tuning yourself .

This is what I intended to do before the daily driver turned into a project as well ...

Cheers A .

Yea i have the Power Fc set up already, have done the self learning idle and have set everything up for the boost control kit, i would rather not buy the datalogit and wideband just at the moment, all the tuning will be done by Andre Simons of Speedtech Motorsport (he is the tuner of the heat treatments r32 gtr that is driven by Reece) when i have the inj and afm, for now i think the stock ecu will be find if i drive it very quietly, i just need to fight the temptation to give it full throttle