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it's not really about the power gain, it's about protection from lowering the intake temps.

True, cos people found that stock intercooler are too small, and after a few times of acceleration it starting to loose its efficiency. It's even worse if you run higher than stock boost. I think my car on dyno last time only did about 2-3 runs on 9psi and the stock intercooler started to get heat soak :P.

Personally I would go for the standard pipe return way rather then over the top of the fan way, using the standard returns just makes it look neater and you don’t have to worry about cutting the hole for the pipe to go through and trimming your fan blade for it all to fit.

Really it’s up yo the end user and I don’t see that much power difference between the three different cooler layouts. It would only be a couple of rwkw either way, if that.

I agree.....and that couple of rwkw difference are usually towards the top rev range. I don't need that as I'm not trying to win a dyno comp.... and I don't drive my car on the street at a constant 6500rpm :D.

Personally I would go for the standard pipe return way rather then over the top of the fan way, using the standard returns just makes it look neater and you don’t have to worry about cutting the hole for the pipe to go through and trimming your fan blade for it all to fit.

Really it’s up yo the end user and I don’t see that much power difference between the three different cooler layouts. It would only be a couple of rwkw either way, if that.

I prefer the 120 degree bend at the throttle body style, no fan shroud trimming, less heat soak and shorter pipe for better throttle response. :D

I started this thread a long time ago and am surprised it's still alive and kicking. I'm sure i've posted what i ended up doing somewhere on this thread but i'll clear up some points about aftermarket piping.

I fitted to my R33 GTS-t the TRUST V-SPL FMIC kit, which uses non-standard piping routes.

1) I did not cut any fan shroud/blades at all to fit the cooler piping which goes to the throttle body.

2) Yes, you do have to cut a hole in the side of your inner driver's side guard, as well as a little bit of grinding away of the lower inside ends of you bumper support. (Hard to explain in words but it was a piece 1cm x 4cm at end end to square off the roundish bumper support to fit the end tanks of the cooler in)

3) You have to move the horns but with this, all you need is a little "S" shape braket to move them closer to your radiator thus fitting between your cooler and radiator still.

4) You will need to modify your front bar accordingly.

5) Everything else bolts straight up.

As SK said, the 120 degree bend trick is the shortest route (with the exception of a Greddy inlet plenum) but if you're only worried about cutting your fan blades, then this isn't worth the time or money to fabricate in my opinion as cutting them isn't necessary if done correctly.

Hope that helps add to the discussion.

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