Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Front Bars

Bendar

By Bendar,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bendar Enthusiast

Bendar

Posted
Posted

Hello all, was wondering if anyone knows of any other alternative to fibreglass front bars. Before you have ask I have searched through these forums & the web quite intensely and have come up with squat! I was searching for poly urethane body kits, part, bumpers and came up with nothing. I'm over fibreglass because the paint never looks right, every little touch and bump makes it crack & they never really sit right IMO. I cant even find the price on factory GTR fronts....

Anyone heard of any other alternatives out there??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202654-r33-front-bars/
Share on other sites
NA_Goodness Grand Master

NA_Goodness

Posted
Posted

There was something in Hot4s a while ago, flexable plastic bodykits. It may have been G-something.com. G-force maybe? Not sure but try that. There was another post here about theat recently, may have been 2 weeks ago? Look back at the last few pages and you'd probebly find it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202654-r33-front-bars/#findComment-3597168
Share on other sites
Bendar Enthusiast

Bendar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I found that thread & I jumped onto ebay for the second time, there are a ton of guys who make urethane front bumpers but none for an R33 skyline.

Found that company G-force in sydney but all of there kits are fibreglass.... Does anyone know if a S2 front would fit onto a S1 without any issues?

There was something in Hot4s a while ago, flexable plastic bodykits. It may have been G-something.com. G-force maybe? Not sure but try that. There was another post here about theat recently, may have been 2 weeks ago? Look back at the last few pages and you'd probebly find it.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202654-r33-front-bars/#findComment-3597972
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Bendar Enthusiast

Bendar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

How much did you pay for the plastic GTR front?? How much bending did you have to do?

they say that s2 dont fit, ive made gtr plastic fit gtst s1

due to it being plastic, got abit of heat into the bar and bent it enough to fit the gtst

im sure this could be done to a s2 bar

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202654-r33-front-bars/#findComment-3621977
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...