Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, im new to all this, thinking of going to the drifting practice days, seems that a must-have thing is a good tight handbrake. came across a few posts which say that 'you need to tighten your handbrake'. i have no clue how to do it, just wandering whether its a hard job? and if its not overly difficult if somebody could explain it to me..thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202869-tightening-handbrake/
Share on other sites

So depending on what you want to achieve there are two ways.

If you gare just tightening it to sell your car or roadworthy it just remove the leather boot on the base of the hand brake and use a 10mm socket and ratchet and tighten it up the nut on the end of the cable.

If you want to tighten it for motorsport or drift I recommend the following:

1. Loosen the nut in the that i referred to earlier until its at the end of the thread then put handbrake all the way down. Obviously do this on level ground.

2. Then jack the back of the car up and remove both wheels. You will see on the rear brake disks there is a rubber bung that looks like a big flathead screw. Remove this with needle nose pliers.

3. Rotate the brake disk until the hole that had the bung in it is at 6 o clock. Look in the hole and you will be able to see a notched wheel in side mounted vertically. This is the adjustment point for the actual shoes on the hand brake.

4. With a flat head screw driver rotate the wheel upwards to tighten. Do this until you cant rotate it up any more. You will find that you can no longer rotate the hub and brake disk at this point as the shoes are too tight.

5. Then you want to back off the shoes by turning the notched wheel down 3-4 notches. You will find that the hub and brake disk are now free again.

6. You have now tightened up the hand brake shoe on that side. Put the rubber bung in with you fingers. Do not push it too hard or it will go in to the hub and you will have to take the disk off to get it back.

7. Repeat on the other side and put wheels back on.

8. Now tighten the nut in the cabin at the base of the hand brake.

9. You should now have a brand new hand brake.

Hope that helps and makes sense.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...