Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Boston Acoustics 12" ProSeries 12.5LF SVC 4ohm

Age: ~4 Years old, I've had it for 2 years, bought 2 off a forum member that imported these himself

Extra Info: check out http://www.bostonacoustics.com/manuals/CarSubMan.pdf

Reason for selling: I have 2, selling 1, want boot space

Location: Liverpool region / NSW

Condition:

** Top surround has been reglued to basket (common problem)

** Will buy brand new box 1cu box for the sub so its ready to go

** Healthy power fed to it 750watts rms (I had 2 subs in parallel), ran all its life off a 1.5kw monoblock

Price: $220

Contact: PM or 0410 690 248

Comments: SQ sub, goes low and tight... only needs a 1cu box.

To Fit: (What car) ANY CAR!!!!!!!!

Pictures:

Brand New Sub Box

post-22311-1201237367_thumb.jpg

Brand New Sub Box Unwrapped

post-22311-1201237375_thumb.jpg

Sub Woofer Mounting Ring for extra bling

post-22311-1201237390_thumb.jpg

Sub Woofer mounted into box

post-22311-1201237397_thumb.jpg

Edited by johnnilicte

1cu enclosure, tiny!

Sub handles 1kw of real RMS power....!! not for the faint hearted!

  • 2 weeks later...

Nice sub for a Nice car

Boston Acoustics vs Nissan

Sony xPlode vs Honda

You get the picture!

No one? anyone into Car Audio at all? I already have 1 in my car, used to have 2, just want boot space, so this one is going.

  • 2 weeks later...

that must of been insanely loud with two of them, did you ever get the spl measured just asking out of curiosity? I'd buy it but I have a 15" Hertz (and no boot really)

free bump

that must of been insanely loud with two of them, did you ever get the spl measured just asking out of curiosity? I'd buy it but I have a 15" Hertz (and no boot really)

free bump

Wouldn't say insanely loud, wasn't as loud as my 12" Kicker L7 in slot tuned box @37hz, but its heaps more nicer to listen to, the bass is nice and tight and crisps when compared to the L7.

I'm just running one in a tiny 1cu box and it's good enough for me, still gets fed 1kw @ 4ohms RMS though and it loves it.

Well the L7 hit 146db, and that was ear bleeding loud... I have never SPL'd the Bostons, but I reckon both of them would hit 140db+ easy.

Best part about them is they only need a 1cu box, the kicker I used to have was a 2.9cu box LOL

try mobile electronics forum (formally CAA)

tried CAA no nibbles... seems like noone is into car audio much these days...

kids just spend their money on stickers and tow hooks for their Hondas....

if no one buys it, I might get really bored and make an closure for the living room... run it off a Jaycar home sub amp module.

Edited by johnnilicte
  • 4 weeks later...

I had same sub in my ex's Volvo S40. Running off GT-24 amp (600wrms) got an easy 143db on Termlab in ported box tuned for SQ!! Good sounding sub that can thump.

Good luck with sale.

Man, is anyone into car audio these days?

I have two of these subs. I have not had a chance to do the full installation into the car but did a quick 15 min install to run them at an spl comp. With boxes just sitting and amp leaning up next to boxes I pulled 142dB. That was running off Alpine MRV-1507 (1500W Bridged). These are awesome subs, pretty much indestructible. Worth it for $200 seeing how when they were brand new they retailed for over $800 each.

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...
I have two of these subs. I have not had a chance to do the full installation into the car but did a quick 15 min install to run them at an spl comp. With boxes just sitting and amp leaning up next to boxes I pulled 142dB. That was running off Alpine MRV-1507 (1500W Bridged). These are awesome subs, pretty much indestructible. Worth it for $200 seeing how when they were brand new they retailed for over $800 each.

Cheers

I use to run 2 of them at 2ohm off a 1.5kw monoblock... and they loved it... but yeah I'm going for the 1x 12 with moulded enclosure to free up boot space.

So as soon as I 1 of the 2, I'm going to get a moulded enclosure made up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From what I understand, stock internals should hold out for a while even if you run 500 at the crank, no? Especially if you don't run a modern turbo setup that reaches power and torque much earlier than the original twins. My engine isn't unopened either, it has N1 Pumps, head oil restrictor, new crank and cams, new piston rings, ARP head studs and Cometic headgasket along with 2860-5s. Considering everything is healthy this should run fine for a while I assume. Once my engine stops leaking shit everywhere, it'll be tuned to 370 crank first anyway, because I need to legalize the turbo setup. If I end up needing a new engine because my block actually has an issue, even though GTSboy was adamant that the whole porous block story is nonsense, before putting an engine in I'm probably gonna take care of the weakspots.
    • Hah, I have no issues with what you are doing whatsoever! You clearly know what you are getting yourself into. It's just funny reading things like this. "What's that noise?" "Oh, that's normal. That's just the engine not getting any oil. Nothing to worry about. It'll go away in a moment"  
    • Yeah I'm keeping an eye on it and might take it out as a once off if this doesn't fully charge. I did some research that said it's normal in equalisation charging. Voltage I thought was 20+ (faulty battery in multimeter) but now its on 15.9v, the max it should go to is 16.2v as per the manual. I'll provide an update once hopefully it's actually fully charged and in float mode. Waiting for it to go to 16.2v and not higher and see what happens. What I suspect has happened is that even though it's not an old battery, I did leave the car turned off for almost 4 weeks at one point then left it off for another 2 weeks which might have erroded the battery and is taking a long time to do this equlisation charge.
    • I wouldn't be using the seats a lot since it's on Historic rego and will not be driven a lot, however I also don't want to fork out 3k for something that won't last. Havent looked at BRZ seats, aiming for something of the same era I did speak to him on the phone once, and I do see your point haha. How many kms do you think you drove before they started wearing out? Just had a look at yours, certainly looking for a reclinable version. The Brides don't look too bad! I would still like to sit in one just to make sure it's what I'm after.    Thanks for the replies fellas. 
    • I bought my Bride reps from Crank Motorsport. He is, um, a trifle disorganised. I would have to look back at the e-mails to make sure I got it right, but I think he sent me normal fabric ones when I ordered the "Alcantara" ones. So he had to pay for shipping 3x and I'm sure that f**ked him off big time. And asking technical questions where nuanced English is required is a no go. It's simple English only. And....should I have bought the Alcantara ones? Well, as it turns out, they are great, feel great, etc, but the fabris wore through on the point of the waist bolster in <2 years. Must have caught a rip from a rivet on jeans or shorts, or something like that. So now I have to patch it somehow. A bit shit. My fault, ultimately, because it is Chinesium Faux Alcantara, not the real thing, and it turns ot that it has the tear resistance of a soggy tissue. But the seats and the reails are great. I probably should have gotten the R34 style ones, and now that they price is up in that ridiculous sort of number, I could have sold them for a profit!
×
×
  • Create New...