Stagea Auto Fourth Gear / Tiptronic Problem... Help!

[Topkart R33]

I really cant believe no one has mentioned this yet, but I'm willing to bet you have nothing wrong with your auto box.

The default behaviour of the Stagea auto (not sure if its the same for s1) is to not engage 4th gear until you either go over 80km/h or until its warmed up enough. So when cold it will not engage 4th at all, until it warms up - often about 2-5 mins into the drive...

It wont let you force 4th gear in any way other than going over about 70-80km/h...and in that case the auto will warm up fairly quick anyway...

That is true...but if thats the case then he wouldn't be able to shift into 4th with tiptronic. It even locks it in 3rd when in tiprtonic mode and cold... Wheel button not working will simply be the plug not connected at the console (easy to forget especially after removing console). I would take out the console around gearbox and check that nothing else not connected or has been hacked into, simple 5 min job and may save you some $$.Failing that,see what a transmission mechanic says as it a bit of an odd fault, more than likely an electrical issue

[RS4StagMan]

[quote

My revs at 100km/h in top gear is just below 2500...

You mean in position "D" you are at 2500 rpm in top gear? or in tiptronic mode? or both?

From my own observations, this what is normal in a Series 2 Auto....

In non tiptronic mode (normal auto mode)

2500 rpm in 4th gear @ 110 km/hr

3500 rpm in 3rd gear @ 110 km/hr give or take...

So should be about 1000 rpm diff b/w 4th and 3rd @110 km/hr

When I say 110 km/hr, I mean this is what the speedo says...actual speed would be around 100 km/hr due to factory speedo error.

[nDuDut]

I really cant believe no one has mentioned this yet, but I'm willing to bet you have nothing wrong with your auto box.

The default behaviour of the Stagea auto (not sure if its the same for s1) is to not engage 4th gear until you either go over 80km/h or until its warmed up enough. So when cold it will not engage 4th at all, until it warms up - often about 2-5 mins into the drive...

It wont let you force 4th gear in any way other than going over about 70-80km/h...and in that case the auto will warm up fairly quick anyway...

I only noticed this when I got an exhaust fitted - because this made it way more noticeable. I could tell something was different before but hadn't put it down to which gear it was in.

you will also notice the car is not very responsive until the engine is warm anyway, which can take longer than the gearbox to warm up. I usually keep an eye on the temp guage and just go easy on the throttle until the needle is horizontal. You'll notice the car suddenly ease up and drive more smoothly once it warms up. It runs fairly rich when cold so probably switches to another fuel map once its warm or something like that.

We probably should have a page of info full of little stagea quirks like this one. I only found this out because it was in the little book I got with the car from the dealer.

If it wont do 4th even when its well and truly warmed up, then maybe you have a fault? in that case, take it to a qualified auto transmission specialist who can open it up and fix it. Hopefully its all fine though...

Thanks for the info, but its definitely not it. I ran on the freeway at 100km/h, with a warm engine, and it's still stuck on third...

[nDuDut]

[quote

My revs at 100km/h in top gear is just below 2500...

You mean in position "D" you are at 2500 rpm in top gear? or in tiptronic mode? or both?

From my own observations, this what is normal in a Series 2 Auto....

In non tiptronic mode (normal auto mode)

2500 rpm in 4th gear @ 110 km/hr

3500 rpm in 3rd gear @ 110 km/hr give or take...

So should be about 1000 rpm diff b/w 4th and 3rd @110 km/hr

When I say 110 km/hr, I mean this is what the speedo says...actual speed would be around 100 km/hr due to factory speedo error.

Before the fault, I'm in 2500rpm at 110km/h on D... Now, as you mention I'm at 3500rpm at 110km/h on D. Of course, if I shift the tiptronic and force it to go to fourth, the rpm dropped to 2500 at 110km/h.

This is also the reason I noticed something was not right with the autobox. Driving home after getting the alarm and head unit fitted, the rpm was higher than normal hence I suspect something was wrong.

[nDuDut]

If the ECU detects a fault, it will store it in its memory, when you perform the diagnostic test it will flash a code, check the code to the list, which ill provide, and hopefully will steer you in right direction.

Can be done for ECU, Auto ECU, Hicas, Attessa(4wd).

Sounds like your alarm/stereo installers werent too skilled.

Where are you located ? Wouldnt go past Chris Rogers for these type of installs in Brisbane.

Thanks for the instructions... I did the self diagnostic and everything is ok except for four circuits (yikes!);

4 - Shift solenoid A

5 - Shift solenoid B

6 - Overrun clutch solenoid

13 - Shift control unit

OMG! Now, where do I start???

[nDuDut]

CRISIS OVER!!!

Thanks for everyone who has helped me in trying to find the solution... Basically, the problem came from an existing security system that was not taken off properly, hence it causes some interference (apparently) with the new one I just installed. Not really anyone's fault I guess, because the old security system unit was hidden so well.

BUT, I'm very, very glad my Stagea is back to normal!

Now, to the next issue... What should we do with that poor fuel consumption?

[chook]

great to hear, did you have any problems getting into diagnostic mode ? took me a few dozen attempts to get it right, instructions are not that clear in at least one place....for me anyway.

[nDuDut]

great to hear, did you have any problems getting into diagnostic mode ? took me a few dozen attempts to get it right, instructions are not that clear in at least one place....for me anyway.

Thanks... I actually had no problems getting into diagnostic mode. Was a bit confused when reading the manual the first time (english is not my first language)... Especially on the part of "depress the brake pedal". I had always thought depress = release (de-press, get it? lol). But once I figure it out, its all good.

But the strangest thing is that on the first diagnostic attempt it recorded four faulty circuits (and I had 14 flashes instead of 13 - not counting the long initial one). The second try it did not recorded any faults but it has 13 flashes. I guess it kinda explains the interference problem.

[chook]

Thanks... I actually had no problems getting into diagnostic mode. Was a bit confused when reading the manual the first time (english is not my first language)... Especially on the part of "depress the brake pedal". I had always thought depress = release (de-press, get it? lol). But once I figure it out, its all good.

But the strangest thing is that on the first diagnostic attempt it recorded four faulty circuits (and I had 14 flashes instead of 13 - not counting the long initial one). The second try it did not recorded any faults but it has 13 flashes. I guess it kinda explains the interference problem.

Once you run the diagnosis, it will clear the codes, until it detects them again, that's why you only saw them once. Those codes could have theoretically been there for years, so hard to know which ones are relevant without driving it after its been cleared.

[jonny8ball]

Once you run the diagnosis, it will clear the codes, until it detects them again, that's why you only saw them once. Those codes could have theoretically been there for years, so hard to know which ones are relevant without driving it after its been cleared.

Is there anyway off running these checks on an s1?? Do they have this function??

[chook]

try this procedure:

[jonny8ball]

try this procedure:

Worked a treat! Cheers buddy!!!

[Sawers_88]

Just had my s2 stagea fitted with an immobilizer last friday. since then wont sift into 3rd unless in tiptronic mode. EXACTLY the same problem.

Edited November 4, 2010 by Sawers_88