Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

i used to be a mechanic so i have changed a few clutch's in my time, but none in a 4wd car.

I have a R32 GTR and want to know what sort of job it is changing the clutch yourself???

Got all the tools for the job like clutch aligner and sockets and all, but i have been quoted around $550 for a clutch remove/install with new rear main and flywheel machine.

I have a new rear main seal, ready to go in, and a bloke lined up to machine the flywheel, if i choose not to fit a alloy/chromalloy flywheel that is.

Anyone done this before?

Thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203251-r32-gtr-clutch-removeinstall/
Share on other sites

yeah, and its a bit of a pain but not too tricky if you know your way around a car. No real tricky things because its 4wd - you will have to remove the front drive shaft but thats just 4 bolts (and slave cylinder). leave the attessa line at the rear of the box in if you are leaving the box in the car.

top 2 bellhousing bolts and starter motor bolts are hard to get at but thats the main problem. if you drop the geabrox cross member completly the engine tilts back a fair way to get at them both. top bellhousing bolts easiest way is 4x 1" extensions along the top of the gearbox. starter motor bolts, a stubby 14mm is best.

oh okay, sounds pretty straight forward. Top bellhousing bolts are always a pain to get to. Is the starter hard to get back into place on these engines?

Droppin the g'box cross member was always gonna happen, havin the engine lean back and drop a few inches would make life a lot easier for sure.

Thanks so much for your help man.

no not particularly hard to get the starter back in, and you can sort of leave it up there on the chasis rail. its the top bolt for the starter motor in particular that is in a tricky spot. but there's no real tricky troubles

cool cool, sounds like this is gonna be fun ;)

Apparently, because its a pull type clutch, the selector fork need to come out before i lower the box? Is that hard to get out or is it pretty obvious when i look at it?

no its a pull clutch unless it is a later model. If it is late model and push type, yes you need to remove the selector fork and its a bit of a pain.

When you say "lowe the box" if you are intending to move it out of the car or even a fair way from normal location you will need to remove the attessa hose at the rear of the box - if so you will need to refill and bleed the attessa, resoviour is in the right rear of the boot

ah okay then. I was just gonna sit the box on the ground straight down from the original position, abuot 1 foot away or so. If i have to move it further, bleeding the ATTESA system - what does that involve - where are the bleed nipples etc etc.

bleeding attessa is simple enough, just better if you don't have to. rear of car on stands, out of gear, engine running, fliuid in the resoviour - there is a bleed nipple at the rear of the gearbox above where the line goes into the box. crack that nipple and the pump bleeds itself. If you still have air bubble trouble there is another nipple hidden above the rear drive shaft, but 9 times out of 10 I don't need to touch that.

Just done this myself and put new clutch and aluminium flywheel in. Most of the work you can do yourself and the clutch fork is not to bad, pull the R clip and push the pin down with a screw driver. You will need 2 of you to wrestle the box back about 5 inches which is enough to get the clutch out and remove the flywheel. Also easier to undo and tighten the flywheel bolts with 2 blokes.

I do suggest if you can to leave the box on some jacks and leave it close to the orginal position if you dont have any work to do on it.

Again 2 bloke to push it back into position makes it a little easier, also install the clutch fork with the new thrust bearing connected to the fork back into position before you start to push the gearbox back. It will push itself into the correct postion the first time you push the clutch pedal in, all in all about 5 hours work.

yeah, and its a bit of a pain but not too tricky if you know your way around a car. No real tricky things because its 4wd - you will have to remove the front drive shaft but thats just 4 bolts (and slave cylinder).

I couldnt fit a normal ring spanner or socket on those drive shaft bolt heads - might be worth getting some thin walled sockets before you start.

top bellhousing bolts easiest way is 4x 1" extensions along the top of the gearbox.

I used 2 x 500mm extensions, with a universal joint at the bolt end. I wrapped some electrical tape on the joint so it didnt flop around too much. Also get someone with skinny arms to help ;-)

if your a mechanic you will have no problems at all doing it. Use a stumpy 14mm ratchet spanner on the top starter motor bolt and some rope to crack it loose, works every time :glare: when the box is hanging you should be able to run your hand along the top of the box, from the rear to the front, and undo the bolt with the tips of your fingers.

dont stress about the tranfer case hose, some vice grips and a thick rag and clamp it off. To be honest i have never had to bleed one and i have done about 40 0f these clutches. Never had a problem with the 4WD system not working after the clutch was changed.

If you have a trans jack it should only take you about 2 hours to change it over.

Thanks for all your help guys, i'll be givin it a go myself maybe today, if not deffinatly tomorrow. Got no stubby spanners but i have got ratchet spanners and other little misc items, i should be able to figure somthin out.

Just how heavy are these boxes. When i worked at ford, i found the manual g\boxes so much lighter than the auto because it didnt have the torque converter with all that oil in it adding to the weight.

Surely they aren't that heavy???

second that. Unless you can bench press about 400 pounds i would not go near lifting one of thses suckers out!!!!

dammit i can only do 399lbs...... :)

i was thinking a mate holding some rope wrapped around the box running up through where the gearstick is...meh, i'll figure somthin out.

If i dont post back, send help, i have been crushed ! ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
×
×
  • Create New...